Summer 2025: Boston, Newport, Prague, Corfu, Albania, and Amsterdam

Hello again! I know it has been awhile. This year’s had a pretty insane start—with the LA fires, the new administration, and just life as usual. But I’m back! I had a lovely start to summer and now it’s already almost over. Visited my family in Boston, saw Hozier in concert at Fenway Park, road-tripped to Newport, Rhode Island, and bopped around Europe to places that hadn’t been on my radar before. So let’s recap. Proceed with caution. This will be a very long post.

I usually don’t travel during the summer because it’s too crowded, touristy, and expensive. Plus, LA is already a vacation destination. I usually prefer traveling late spring or early fall. And after returning from my recent travels, I am reminded of why I don’t typically travel during the summer. It’s too hot and uncomfortable walking almost twenty thousand steps a day during the summer heat. I sweated through all my clothes and had to do laundry halfway through my trip. I don’t regret it. I had the best time. It was so lovely having a fun start to the summer and actually having plans for once. But I was completely exhausted and dehydrated.

Every time I return to Boston to visit my parents, I love exploring a new part of New England. This year, I chose Newport, Rhode Island. It was a fun little getaway even though it started with some June gloom. We stayed at the Wyndham Newport Hotel. The rooms were spacious. They have a gym, indoor pool, and shuttle service into the main town center. Town center is close by but parking can be expensive, so the shuttle was a nice perk that guests really should take advantage of. We enjoyed some good food at Yagi Noodles, Giusto, and Newport Vineyards. Yagi is a good spot for ramen and other Asian bites. Giusto has delicious Italian food and is located directly on the wharf. We stopped by Newport Vineyards on the way out and it has a fun restaurant vibe, extensive menu, and great views for photos. I was actually surprised that I enjoyed the food there so much. Overall, Newport was an easy quick getaway from Boston. Some of the highlights were the Cliff Walk, the Forty Steps, and the beaches and lighthouses along the beautiful coastal Ocean Drive.

June in Boston was so lovely, but there was a brutal heatwave during part of my visit. I tried some new restaurants, including Cafe Sauvage, Little Whale Oyster Bar, and Beacon 1928. Cafe Sauvage is a French Cafe on Mass Ave in Backbay with lavender matcha (my favorite), Nutella crepes, and croissant sandwiches. Little Whale Oyster Bar is located on Newbury Street. I had a delicious lobster pasta and endive and beet salad there. Then I took my parents to Beacon 1928 for their anniversary and really loved it! Beacon Hill is such a cute neighborhood and I had never really spent much time there before. The restaurant was charming and quaint and had that old school vibe. The dishes were unexpected and so good! We ordered the red snapper ceviche, beet salad, fried cauliflower, truffle mushroom gnocchi, steak frites, and my absolute favorite dessert—sticky toffee pudding! Our server was lovely and super accommodating too, allowing me to order half portions when I couldn’t decide between dishes. I cannot wait to come back here! I think it might be my new favorite, but I’m not sure if something can be a favorite if you’ve only had it once. So I definitely have to come back!

My absolute favorite part of my Boston trip, aside from seeing my family of course, was the Hozier concert! My entire trip back to Boston was actually planned around the Hozier concert at Fenway Park. I can’t remember if I’ve ever been to Fenway Park before, but I imagine I must have because I grew up in Boston. Maybe on a school field trip? If so, I have no memory of it. Anyway, the idea of seeing Hozier in Boston in Fenway Park felt like an iconic experience I couldn’t miss. I had floor seats, but it was not close enough to the stage to see his facial expressions. I wondered if it even mattered since most of the time, I found myself staring at the big screens for his up-close shots. I wondered if the general admission pit (standing only) directly in front of the stage would have been worth it? Walking out onto the field took my breath away! And then seeing Hozier perform live was magical! I had been listening to his latest album on repeat since the beginning of the year and knew all his songs, which is rare for me going into a concert. I had been following his tour on social media since May when it began. It was an unforgettable experience and I wish I went to see him that second night he performed. Because of the heatwave, people were skipping the concert and selling their tickets online. I would have gladly sat through the heatwave again to see him perform for a second time, but I felt guilty at the thought of paying for tickets to see the same artist perform two nights in a row. But now, I regret that I didn’t do it. I was too excited and busy recording his performance on my phone that first night that I’m not sure I was fully present. It would have been 100 percent worth it to see him again! He is so amazing live. Maybe for his next tour, I’ll see him in another city.

I generally like to travel abroad every year, but I had been feeling uninspired lately and didn’t feel motivated to go anywhere, which is so unlike me. The only reason I had plans to travel to Boston was because I had bought the Hozier concert tickets in February, but other than that, I didn’t have any other travel plans and had been really feeling like I needed a change of scenery. I have a friend who lives in Prague and was looking for a travel partner for Corfu and Albania. The main flights to Prague from Boston were through Amsterdam. Since I was already going to be in Boston, it made sense to add on a trip to Europe because it was closer. So we decided fairly last minute to book the trip. These destinations weren’t places I had on my list previously, but I am happy that I got the chance to visit. I had an amazing time and was surprised how much I enjoyed all these countries. It was nice to have a trip exceed my expectations. It was a bit confusing and exhausting though, bopping around four different countries with three different currencies, and two different time zones. Even though the Czech Republic is part of the EU, they use their own currency in koruna. Corfu is part of Greece, uses euros, and is in a different time zone. Albania is not part of the EU and uses lek. I had a pretty packed itinerary during the height of the summer heat, which I wouldn’t recommend.

Since my friend lives in Prague and there were direct flights from there to Corfu, I chose it as my first European destination. I arrived in Prague from Boston after a layover in Amsterdam. I only had two days/one night in Prague before we had to leave for Corfu and Albania. After the Corfu/Albania leg of the trip, I had planned to return to Prague for another two nights/one day before leaving for the last leg of my trip to Amsterdam. Prague was quiet, old worldly, and understated. We had some really good food there. It was pretty inexpensive. Loved their muddled raspberry lemonades with soda water. Ordered this everywhere. It’s such a refreshing cooler in the summer heat. We enjoyed a really good first dinner at Alma, which I would describe as a casual, modern, upscale, and trendy restaurant. Dinner, which included a cocktail, one main each, and a shared dessert, cost less than 50 euros each, and that was considered expensive over there. Can’t get that in LA! I had the most satisfying gelato at Angelato. Loved the mango and stracciatella flavors. Enjoyed a nice lunch on the patio of Pauseteria. I really wanted to try Cafe Savoy, but it was closed for renovations during my visit. My last dinner in Prague was at a traditional Czech spot that is known for duck called U Modre Kachnicky. I love duck so I was excited to experience Czech duck. It was rich and very filling. They had a sweet version and a savory one and I think I preferred the sweet roasted one.

Another restaurant that was recommended to me was Restaurant Mlynec in Old town, but I got there too late. One thing to note about Prague is that restaurants often close their kitchen over an hour, maybe even two, before the restaurant is supposed to close. I found this odd and misleading. I stopped at the restaurant at 1pm because their website stated that brunch was served till 3pm, but was turned away and informed that the kitchen had already closed for that meal service. Another time I stopped at a restaurant for dinner at 8:30pm because the restaurant website listed that they were open till 10pm, but the kitchen was already closed. That was annoying. So watch out for this if you visit!

Shopping at mainstream stores (like Zara, Mango, and H&M) was pretty good in Prague. It was quieter and less touristy than other popular European cities and way less expensive than the U.S.—almost 30-40% less, with a better assortment and size availability! It was pretty easy to take the trams (they use the trust system so no need to swipe) all over the city. The famous castle was beautiful, but I didn’t realize you could take the tram to the back of the castle to avoid an uphill hike. So I made the hike up and down and it was exhausting! It was fun to hang out at Letna park at the top of a hill and have a beer at the beer garden while enjoying the city and river views. I also visited the astronomical clock, walked across Charles bridge, saw the Lennon Wall, and strolled along the river.

Next stop, Corfu. We flew there via Ryan Air and experienced delays during both our departing and returning flights. The seafood in Corfu was amazing! We had a delicious lunch at Rex Restaurant in Old Town. It was about 41 USD each for a seafood lunch without alcohol. Loved their fish carpaccio. They tend to use a lot of kumquat in their dishes, which was a nice complement to carpaccio. The best gelato was at Papagiorgis Patisserie. They had a ricotta with ginger, honey, orange that was incredible. Old Town is small and while it’s fun for souvenirs (like acacia wood kitchen products), small beach views (these smaller beaches in Old Town had small pebbles instead of sand, which can be uncomfortable walking on), and restaurants, the other side of the island had better beaches and cliffside views.

We spent one night/one day in Corfu before we took a ferry to Albania for 3 nights and then had planned to return to Corfu for one more night/day after Albania before catching our returning flight to Prague. A lot of my trip was like this, sandwiching destinations with the same city before and after, which made my trip extra exhausting. Half of my two-week trip was travel days, spent on the go between destinations. Midway through, I just wanted to stay still, in one place, without having to pack and catch a plane, train, or ferry!

Our last night/day in Corfu was spent on the other side of the island, a 45 min taxi drive away from the town center, at an adults-only all-inclusive resort on the cliffside called Alkyna Lifestyle Beach Resort. It was so wonderful! I wish we could have stayed here more than one night! I didn’t think I would like an all-inclusive resort, but maybe that’s because I had never been to a luxurious one before! It made everything so easy! Especially since we were so exhausted from our travel excursions and desperately needed some relaxation. The food was pretty good for buffet. Aside from the main buffet restaurant, they had only one other proper restaurant on-site that had a la carte menu options, but it was reservations only, and was already booked up when we arrived, unfortunately. The property was beautiful, but was so busy during sunset and post-dinner hours, it was difficult to find lounge seats at their rooftop terrace bar and indoor/outdoor terrace lounge. Loved our room. Loved the amenities. The beach was gorgeous and relaxing. The water was clear and generally calm. There weren’t too many people. Because it was a private beach, we didn’t have to worry about leaving our belongings on our daybed while we dipped in the ocean. It was a lot of walking to get up and down the property though since it’s hillside. If needed, you can call for a driver to come get you with a golfcart.

I would totally visit Corfu again and spend more time on this side of the island. Corfu was not a cheap destination though. It was definitely more expensive than Prague and Albania, but still cheaper than the U.S. If I was there solo, it would have been even pricier because the taxi ride to the other side of the island was about 50 euros alone and short rides from town center to the airport or to the ferry were 25 euros even though it was only a 10-15 minute ride.

The easiest way to get to the Albania Riviera is by way of a thirty-minute fast ferry from Corfu, which was why Corfu was added to our itinerary. The ferry ticket was about 36 USD each way. We stayed at the Niklas Boutique Hotel a few minutes away from the main promenade of Sarande in Albania. The promenade was too touristy and a bit grungy for me. Our room at Niklas had a minimalist aesthetic. It was clean, spacious, and had a balcony with views of the promenade and ocean. The hotel host, Alejandro, was so lovely. Breakfast was included every morning. Our first dinner was at Taverna Fish Filipi, a popular local restaurant close to the hotel. It was fantastic! And so affordable. I probably had the best crab spaghetti I’ve ever had for less than 9 USD! It was messy and a lot of work breaking through the crab shell to get the meat with my hands, but it was so worth it. The sauce was light and super garlicky. I still think about that dish. Our total meal was 39 USD for two people! That included wine, shared appetizer, one main each, and a shared dessert. We also had seafood at Haxhi on the promenade that was also good and had a more fun vibe. Restaurants on the promenade were still affordable but a little more expensive. A plate of seafood pasta might be 16-20 USD vs 9 USD. Fish carpaccio in Albania is more commonly served with passion fruit and strawberry versus the kumquat in Corfu.

We took a day trip to Ksamil for the beaches, which felt too touristy and a bit like a club with the DJs and crowds. I think if you walk past the main area, it might be quieter. But we took the bus and had to walk from the bus stop to the beach in the heat. After walking for 30 minutes, we gave up and stopped at the nearest beach club where you have to pay 12 USD for a daybed that wasn’t close enough to the water for us to feel safe leaving our belongings unguarded. Even though the waters were super clear and really calm, there were just too many people around to enjoy it. So many kids and floaties in the water. I would recommend paying for a taxi and going further along the coast. Some people we met at our hotel had recommended walking to Sea La Vie beach club, but we had walked 30 minutes and still hadn’t reached it. I also think staying in Ksamil might be worth it vs just doing a day trip. You could prob divide your trip—stay for half the time in Ksamil and the other half in Sarande. That way, you could choose a quieter location as a base and get to enjoy the beaches more.

While in Sarande, we did a group tour to Blue Eye natural springs, an old castle on top of the hill that overlooked Sarande, and the stone wall city of Gjirokastër. We also took a separate trip to Butrint National Park to see the Roman Ruins. While on the side of the coast visiting Butrint and Ksamil, we stopped by The Mussel House on the water for a late lunch. It’s a mussel farm (they also have group tours) and restaurant. Every restaurant we went to, we ordered fish carpaccio. While the food was good here, my favorite meal was at Taverna Fish Filipi. It had the best seafood, was super cheap, and had a more local family vibe. So it’s not a place you would go to for a night out, but definitely a place to check out for good food.

Overall, I really enjoyed The Albanian Riviera. Super affordable, great food, friendly people. I would probably spend less time near the promenade though, and more time exploring the towns away from the main area. After this trip, I am now curious about exploring other parts of The Balkans, like Croatia and Montenegro.

Prague, Corfu, and Albania had been about 90 degrees each day. I had sweated through all my clothes and had to do laundry at my friend’s place in Prague before I left for the last leg of my trip. I was happy that I wore every single outfit though. Made me feel like I packed my carryon luggage efficiently. Even still, I was missing some key summer staples for traveling in that type of heat. Like more shorts, linen, and crochet outfits. By the time I got to Amsterdam, I was happy for some solo chill time on my own, but I was too tired to do anything! My feet ached and I was exhausted from walking seven miles a day every day. I was dehydrated and sleep-deprived. Plus, it was so cold and gloomy in Amsterdam. In the 60s for my first two days there, which was a drastic drop from the rest of my trip. I didn’t bring any warm clothes except my airplane clothes, which I didn’t want to wear for the next three days straight. I had to go shopping to get a couple of pieces of warmer clothes to swap into. I stayed at the Kimpton de Witt Hotel by the canals near Central Station. It was an easy walk from the train station, but I feel like it was a little further away from all the places I wanted to visit. Not terribly far, as it was still in the Central neighborhood, but because I was exhausted and at the end of my trip, every 15 min walk felt far. The hotel was nice, but a bit pricey (it would have been cheaper had I booked even one week earlier) considering I didn’t have a view (it was of a wall) and we weren’t located directly off the canal. But I liked my room. It was a good size, not too small, not too big. I liked that the hotel hosted happy hour every night in the lobby. The tram stop was in front of the hotel so that was also convenient.

My favorite eats in Amsterdam were: Chun Cafe, Pat’s Poffertjes, Bakkerijwolf, and Restaurant Domenica. Chun Cafe had the most delicious toast sandwiches and matcha. I liked it so much, I came back for a second time! You may see on social media that there are long lines because it’s a popular spot, but if you go first thing when it opens at 10am, you will have no problem getting in. There are two locations and I think the one closer to Central Station might be less crowded. I loved their ribeye bulgogi and garlic shrimp toasts. Maybe the garlic shrimp toast over the bulgogi. Very filling. I also tried their banana cloud matcha and their strawberry matcha and both were such a nice sweet treat! It was about 25 USD for a matcha and a toast. Poffertjes are mini Dutch pancakes and usually come with powdered sugar, but you can add on other toppings such as nutella and bananas. These were light, soft, and delicious! You can probably get them from any vendor, but Pat’s Poffertjes has multiple locations and was easy to find. Bakkerijwolf was a cute, casual cafe in The Nine’s area. I had a great watermelon beet salad there. I wanted to try their sticky toffee pudding but completely forgot to order it at the end of my meal. Restaurant Domenica was my special treat on the last night of my trip and it was fantastic! Modern Italian food and excellent service. I had the tomato burrata salad, langoustine linguine, and bigne dessert with pecan gelato. I definitely recommend it! It was about 87 USD for three courses and two glasses of wine at this upscale Italian restaurant (they charge 20 euros upon booking and deduct it from your final check).

I was also excited to try Indonesian food in Amsterdam upon learning that there was a large Indonesian community. I went to the popular Sampura restaurant and ordered a small rijsttafel (this translates to rice table), which is basically an Indonesian table sampler adapted by the Dutch. I was expecting it to be better or maybe I didn’t go to the right spot. But for a casual solo meal, I thought it was expensive at 71 USD for just me. This included the small table sampler, a side order of noodles because I was still hungry, and one cocktail. Service was not great because they were busy and almost didn’t even let me walk-in. Even though it had good ratings, I’d probably skip this spot. While in Amsterdam, I had to try pannenkoeken, which are regular Dutch pancakes. To me, they sort of tasted like open crepes, but slightly thicker. The one I had at Dutch Pancake Masters was a bit too rich for me. I prefer poffertjes. But maybe Upstairs Pancakes would have been better? It’s a popular choice among travelers and it looks like they have more options for flavors. Another place I checked out was Zero Zero for a quick sandwich. I discovered this spot on TikTok and was drawn to the idea of a focaccia sandwich with mortadella and stracciatella. But the focaccia was not soft. It was more thin and crispy and there was not enough filling. So I wouldn’t recommend this place either if it comes up in your search.

In terms of sightseeing in Amsterdam, I visited the Van Gogh museum and did a cheese and wine canal tour. The Van Gogh museum was quite small (and if you’re looking for Starry Night, that’s at The MoMA in NYC), but I enjoyed learning more about his life and seeing his other works. The canal tour was relaxing and beautiful on the one sunny day that I had in Amsterdam. However, Flagship Viator tours were awful with communication so choose your tour wisely. They emailed me the day before my tour date to inform me that my time-slot was canceled and to choose another. I chose another and they never responded back. I emailed them again two more times asking for confirmation, but there was no response. Finally, on the day of the tour, my last day in Amsterdam, I didn’t know what to do since I didn’t have much wiggle room. I showed up for the earlier time slot that I had selected in my email back to them since my time slot was supposedly canceled. Planned my whole morning around it, only to be told that I was not allowed on that tour and that I should have known because I didn’t get confirmation. Basically, they didn’t take accountability and they blamed me. They claimed my time slot was never canceled and that I needed to wait for my time. It was a bit annoying to deal with, but I would still recommend doing a canal tour, but just not with them.

If I had more time in Amsterdam and wasn’t so exhausted, I would have wanted to check out Vondel Park, visit another museum, try more restaurants, do a daytrip to Zaanse Schans, and explore some local markets. I couldn’t visit Anne Frank’s house because it booked up months in advance. I took the tram all around the city, but still did a significant amount of walking. The neighborhoods and canals were so charming. I walked through the Red-light district out of curiosity. That was interesting. Even though I enjoyed Amsterdam and would probably visit again (it’s only about a 7 hour direct flight from Boston), I found it to be a bit pricey for food and accommodations, probably the most expensive city of this trip. I also thought the city was a little lonely solo. There were groups of friends everywhere hanging out by the canal, having coffee or beer together. It felt more like a social city, especially in the summer. I did like how easy it was to get around the city via tram (you have to swipe getting on and off which was a bit annoying especially if the tram was crowded and you need to rush off or have luggage) and to get into the city from the airport via train to Central Station (only a 15 min ride from the airport for maybe 6 euros one way). But you definitely have to watch out while you’re walking around because you could easily get hit by a cyclist! They are everywhere and moving in every direction at a fairly fast speed!

When I returned home to LA, it took me a week to recover and a month for my feet to feel normal again. My feet stayed tender for awhile and a big patch of skin on the bottom peeled off towards the balls. I was in desperate need of a body and foot massage. I’m grateful for this unexpected summer adventure, but I am also happy to be home again. Including my time in Boston, I was gone for 5 weeks total!

You know what was nice about being on vacation though? Having to get dressed up and wear make-up every day with an agenda. Working remotely and living alone in LA, I really don’t have to get dressed at all if I don’t want to. Sometimes, I don’t leave the house for days (I know, it’s terrible). It was nice being forced to present myself to the world and have a purpose each day, rather than sitting alone at home at a computer. I do miss that. I probably wore more outfits on my summer vacation than I have all year! Isn’t that crazy? My clothes just don’t get used as much anymore these days. Once back home, I bought a few more summer items that I felt I was missing on my European vacay like linen shorts, flowy linen dress, crochet outfit for the beach, bathing suit cover up, a new bikini, and a straw purse. I don’t really need these items now, but for my next vacation, I will be ready! Wherever that may be! It’s so much fun planning outfits and packing.

Maybe I need to romanticize my life in LA more and make every day feel more like vacation. I’ve tried to be more intentional about it before, but it’s easy to fall back into a routine. Life just gets in the way sometimes. Traveling reminds me that there is a bigger world out there. It inspires me and resets my soul, and every once in a while, we all just need a reboot.

Food Tour: San Sebastian & Porto

I know it has been almost a year since I’ve written. It has been weighing heavily on me and I had been mentally beating myself up for having taken this long to write again. I got a new contract/work client and that has consumed most of my year, and sadly, it has taken me away from my passion project. Such is life. Gotta make money to live. But also, I really needed to take a mental health break and do some internal healing.

Anyways, ever since last year’s Euro trips, I had been craving another adventure. Decided to take a much needed vacay and ended up in San Sebastian, Spain and Porto, Portugal. I fell in love with Portugal last year because of my visit to Lisbon. During that trip, I also visited Lagos, but was unable to fit in Porto and it had been on my mind ever since. Then I was inspired by my boss to order a glass of port wine for dessert when we were out at a team dinner back in May. Having that glass of port that night was such a lovely way to end dinner. That moment really solidified my decision to choose Porto as part of my next trip. I mean, I was looking for an excuse to return to Portugal anyway and I had to have port directly from where it came from! Then the reason I decided to add San Sebastian to the trip was because I went on a date to Wolfgang Puck’s Merois in The Pendry Hotel on Sunset and had the most delicious Ube Basque Cheesecake (sidenote: Merois also has a really delicious chocolate vanilla pop on their poolside menu). That cheesecake stayed on my mind for days afterwards. I had to return to Merois three additional times to have more. So of course, that meant I had to travel to the Basque region of Spain to have the original burnt Basque cheesecake! Plus, San Sebastian is known for its concentration of Michelin star restaurants and pintxos (tapas), which is perfect for a food lover like myself.

And now here I am. Back in Los Angeles with post-vacay blues. It was really fun, but it wasn’t easy to coordinate the two cities together. I flew into Paris for a layover, hopped onto another plane to Bilbao, and then took a 1.5 hour bus ride to San Sebastian. To get to Porto, I took a 1.5 hour bus ride back to Bilbao and flew to Madrid for a layover before finally arriving in Porto. It took me awhile to commit to this trip mainly because of the layovers and buses involved. I prefer direct flights to destinations. I didn’t want to deal with the hassle. But a lot of places worth visiting are not the easiest to get to.

San Sebastian was really charming. I stayed at two different hotels. I like to experience different neighborhoods and I also like to break up the cost of accommodations by staying at a really nice place and then somewhere a bit more budget friendly. I stayed at Sansebay and Lasala Plaza Hotel. Both were great locations by the wharf, but of course, Lasala was the better stay. This luxury boutique hotel has a rooftop pool and my room had a balcony with a beautiful view of the port and the beach. Staff was so friendly and helpful. I didn’t like the narrow pillows though and I would recommend you ask to switch it out.

What I loved most about San Sebastian was going pintxos bar-hopping! Some of the restaurants were a little chaotic though, so I would recommend going on the earlier end. These light bites were so affordable. What was even more shocking is that wine is only about $3 euros! Cheaper than ordering water! My pintxos meals with wine were sometimes only $16 euros total. Pintxos were generally $2-$6 each. Larger plates were relatively more expensive like $14-$20 euros each. I really enjoyed Ganbara (an Anthony Bourdain recommendation) and Sirimiri for pintxos. I stopped by La Vina, where the original burnt Basque cheesecake was invented, and I didn’t really love it. It was a bit too creamy for me. So maybe I prefer the updated variations of it more than the original.

I also wanted to take advantage of trying a Michelin star restaurant in San Sebastian because it’s so much less expensive in Europe than in the USA. I tried my first 2-star Michelin restaurant Amelia and it was definitely an experience. People were presenting me with dishes and talking me through each one in length, serving me, and approaching me from all angles. Out of nowhere, someone would appear from behind me and in front of me at the same time to switch out utensils and plating or to ask me something. This made it very difficult to take all my photos and videos in peace lol. It was a little too much attention for me, personally. In terms of the food, I must admit, I didn’t enjoy it. I had high expectations because it was supposedly seafood focused with Italian and Japanese influences, cuisines that I love. While there was definitely a lot of fresh seafood, it wasn’t served with flavors that matched my preference. The only Italian dish was the cheese ravioli with chunks of chopped oysters in the sauce, which to me is such an odd pairing. Their lobster dish had very generous portions and I usually love lobster, but it tasted like raw poached lobster without much flavor even though it was served in a sauce. Perhaps the flavors were too delicate and subtle for my palate. I really enjoyed the champagne and dessert though, but there wasn’t a dish that really stood out to me. They kept offering me additional items verbally without showing me a menu so I had mistakenly thought these additional items were included, but they were all extra charges. So be careful. This was a pretty expensive 16-course meal. I went for lunch and couldn’t eat again until the next day. I was uncomfortably too full!

My favorite meal in San Sebastian was at Old Town Coffee House. This may sound odd, but I LOVED their breakfast toast called The Lot. It had avocado, crushed tomato, Iberian ham, black sesame, touch of lime, olive oil, with garlic-parsley sauce on sourdough bread. I’m not usually a bread person, but I enjoyed all the bread I had in San Sebastian. Their tomatoes are so flavorful. In the U.S., I feel like a lot of tomatoes are bland. Plus, the Iberian ham! So good! I didn’t know the difference between Iberian ham, prosciutto, and Serrano ham, but now I do. You know Iberian ham in the U.S. is $150/lb?!?! Insane. I loved the toast so much that I came back the next day for more and it was still just as good.

On my last night, I stopped by The Blind Pig for a cocktail. Loved the charming vibe of this speakeasy. Beautiful cocktails served with wasabi seaweed chips. I really liked these chips and I need to find them here!

All in all, I thought San Sebastian was charming and cute. Pintxos bar hopping was really fun. The bay is beautiful, but I wouldn’t come here for the beach. The beach is just surrounded by tourists, boats, and buildings. It felt like a beach in the city. San Sebastian is small and there’s not a ton to do. I stayed 3 nights and that might have been too much, but I just felt since it was annoying to get to, might as well stay longer to relax and not have to bop around. I think if you traveled to the surrounding countryside or to Rioja valley for wine tasting, it might be worth it to stay longer. While food was fairly inexpensive, I found that the nicer hotels were more expensive here because it’s a beach-type destination. In addition, I must mention that they have a really good 2-floor Zara, which is 40% cheaper than in the U.S.A. My visit also unintentionally coincided with their regatta celebrations, so old town became like a huge, dirty frat party on my last day with broken bottles and trash everywhere.

Next stop: Porto. I didn’t know what to expect with Porto because I loved Lisbon so much last year. I wasn’t sure it could top Lisbon. From all my research, it seems like there is a rivalry between Lisbon and Porto much like San Francisco and Los Angeles and I think that’s part of the reason it took awhile before I decided it was worth taking a trip to Porto. Again, I stayed at two different hotels—Hotel Moon & Sun and Portobay Flores. Portobay Flores was my splurge (and it was nicer and less expensive than my luxury hotel in San Sebastian although San Sebastian had the better view) and it was fantastic. It’s located in an old historic building (felt like an old castle) that use to belong to a wealthy Portuguese family. It’s based on Rua das Flores shopping street, not far from Ribeira and the bridge. The staff was so attentive and helpful. The hotel scent was seductive. My room had black out curtains, which allowed for the best sleep. The chocolate they left on my bedside during turndown service was delish. I ate the entire jar of complimentary sugar cookies that was on my reading table. I was welcomed with a very generous pour of my choice of welcome drink.

To my surprise, Porto was very congested. So many tourists. There was construction all over the city, which is a huge eye sore at every turn. However, Porto had the most beautiful sunset over the river with a great view from the Ponte Luis bridge and Jardim do Morro. The park was filled with people lounging, picnicking, and enjoying the live music while watching the sunset. That was probably my favorite part of Porto proper. That and probably all the pasteis de natas I ate at Manteigaria. Manteigaria has a few locations. I liked the one at Delta Coffee House by Bolhao Market. You can get some pasteis de natas with a coffee (or my preference, a matcha) with other light breakfast options. I visited the Sao Bento Station (quick walk and visit from the hotel) which also has a Time Out market, stopped by the Bolhao Market (the concierge at Portobay Flores did not recommend I eat there even though some blogs encourage it), visited the Chapel of Souls, shopped on Rua das Flores (there’s a Portuguese tshirt shop called Typographia that I liked along with some great port wine shops) and Rua Santa Catarina, and walked along the touristy Ribeira by the water. I ate at Flow (fun, lively, big), Boa Bao (Asian fusion), Alibi by Yours Porto (small and charming wine bar), Cantina 32 (lively modern boho, across from Portobay Flores), and Elemento (upscale) restaurants. All very good. The Michelin recommended Elemento was a special treat on my last night and it was so delicious. I was impressed. Every dish resonated with my palate and it made me happy. Some other places I would have loved to try are Gruto (Michelin recommended, women run), Mistu, and Say Cheesecake! & Co (for brunch). I went to the highly reviewed and popular Zenith for breakfast one day, but I didn’t really like it. I would have preferred a casual morning bite at Delta Coffee House or the busy cafe near the hotel called Floresta Cafe by the Hungry Biker.

My favorite part of my Porto trip was my day trip to Duoro Valley for wine tasting via BL Heritage tours. BL Heritage tours was a little pricier than the other group tours you would find on Viator or Get Your Guide, but I think it was worth it because it was more intimate. Instead of a big bus group of 20-40 people, it hosted small groups of about 8 people in a luxury van. At some points of the tour, we joined a couple of their other small groups, but for the majority of the day, it was just the seven of us plus the tour guide. The 1.5 hour drive was beautiful. They offered us water bottles. Our tour started with a 1 hour boat ride along the Duoro River. On the boat, we were served a port wine spritz with snacks while being given a history lesson on the origins of port wine. Then we continued onto a beautiful vista point (Casal Deloivos). Our guide gave us pasteis de natas to munch on while we took in the gorgeous views of the valley and posed for pictures. From there we visited our first vineyard Quinta da Foz, where we got a tour of their property along with an outdoor wine tasting. Next, we had lunch at Quinta do Buchiero vineyard and were served a traditional Portuguese meal along with a wine pairing. It was the most beautiful day with the best tour guide and company.

As always, check out my Instagram @loveinmybelly for food pics. Now back to reality and back to work. Where should I go next?

Spring Break: Italy & Portugal

It has been awhile since I have written. Life can be so confusing. I think I’m going through a mid-life crisis. Is that possible? Something had been feeling off and it had been difficult to pinpoint. But I knew, I needed to change my environment, even if temporarily, to change my energy, flow, and focus. I took advantage of an opportunity to escape to Europe because my neighbor was going to be spending an extended amount of time in Italy. I had been to Italy so many times before, but it had been a decade since. Plus, I love Italian food, pasta particularly. At the very last minute, I booked a trip because nothing was really happening for me in LA and I had the time. I had been stressed. I had been overwhelmed. I had been stuck. So why not? And since I love exploring new countries, why not add in Portugal too?

Florence (4 nights): My first stop was Florence, where I joined my neighbor and her sister. This brought back so many memories. I had first visited Florence when I was 19 years old, with two friends, after we completed our summer abroad in the countryside of France. I was so young! A baby! This was pre-technology and pre-smart phones. I stayed in hostels and used guidebooks. Back then, hostels were not as nice, modern, or fun as they are today. I roughed it. I guess my curiosity and desire to explore was always a part of me and it felt good to get back in touch with that part of me again. Travel is a privilege but adventure is within you. Since my neighbor was staying in Italy for the month, she got an Airbnb a bit outside of the city. This was a little annoying because we had to walk to get to a tram to get into the city, and then walk a bunch more. If you can, stay in the city center. It will make your life so much easier. During this trip, we dined at some really lovely restaurants such as La Menagere (a little fancy and romantic) and La Giostra (charming). We did not have reservations at either. Since Europeans typically eat late, we were able to get tables without reservations because we arrived early. However, I think we got lucky. You should definitely make reservations if you want to eat at the best spots. Some of the random spots we chose were not as good, but we were sometimes desperate because we didn’t have reservations and didn’t want to wait hours. We went wine tasting in Tuscany. Walked all over the city, averaging at least 15,000 steps a day, which is anywhere between 5-8 miles. We indulged in gelato. Since I had been to Florence before, I didn’t feel obligated to wait in line to visit all of the museums. I don’t even think I have the patience now to do it. I was still very exhausted from all the walking though. We saw the Duomo, walked across Ponte Vecchio, shopped at the Central Market (bought truffle slices), climbed up to Piazzale Michelangelo for a view of the city, and explored many of the small, cobblestone streets. There were a few restaurants/bars that I wish we had time to try, such as Floreal (cool looking bar), lo Osteria Personale (small, quaint, wine-bar vibe, Michelin-rated), Gurdulu (casual, hip), and Zeb (casual, diner style, Michelin rated) in the Santo Spirito neighborhood. But I guess I’ll have to save that for next time!

Rome (3 nights): Rome was my second stop and also the first part of my solo adventure. We took the train to Rome together from Florence but then separated at the end of the day. They proceeded onto Naples and Pompeii and I decided to stay in Rome. I had not really traveled abroad solo since pre-pandemic. I was a little nervous about this when I booked the trip but once I got into my groove, I felt in my element. I stayed near the Trevi fountain at Relais 95 Trevi for one night but I would not do that again. The hotel was fine with a rooftop terrace and friendly staff. The room was small though and the area was overly crowded with tourists. The second two nights, I stayed in Trastavere, which I preferred. It’s close enough but away from the touristy sites. I stayed at Palazzo Baj, which is more like a guest house. The room was spacious and clean, but the bed was memory foam and super uncomfortable. Memory foam beds and pillows are something your body needs to get used to. It’s not something that should be offered for a random stay at a hotel. I’m surprised that they only provided memory foams beds because it’s not for everyone. I think a standard mattress would be more universally pleasing. The staff was super friendly and helpful but they were rarely to be seen on the premises. If you email the hotel in advance, it takes days to get a response. You have to make an appointment to check in. When you get your hotel confirmation, you can’t respond back to the email from which it comes from. You have to respond to the email listed at the bottom of the confirmation email. I made that mistake and waited days with no response. But even when you email the correct address, it still takes days and follow up. They didn’t provide complimentary water in the room but when I had written a review about this on Tripadvisor, the owner said that they provided complimentary water. I didn’t see it. I only saw small water bottles in the mini bar which had a listed fee. They had complimentary water in a large carafe in the lounge but they didn’t refill the bottle regularly. Since there was no staff around to inform, I couldn’t refill my water bottle from the water in the lounge and I wasn’t sure if the tap water from the faucet was safe. Sorry, don’t mean to go off about water but with all the walking, I was exhausted and dehydrated and sometimes did not get the chance to search for a market to pick up a bottle. The guesthouse was also a little isolated from the main area of Trastavere, about a 12 minute walk. There aren’t as many mid-range hotel options in Trastavere so you could also stay in Piazza Navona or Campe de Fiore or Vatican if you want something quiet. Airbnb is an option too. But I would stay away from Trevi, Pantheon, and the Colosseum.

The last time I had been to Rome was with my college boyfriend when I was 22 years old. Even a second time around, the colosseum was still mesmerizing. I took a fun cooking class and learned how to make tiramisu and pasta from scratch without a machine. I ate so much pasta and dessert. I tried Maritozza con La Panna for the first time because it’s in the windows of every pastry shop. It’s a sweet bun filled with milk cream. I enjoyed it but it was a little too much cream and bread for me. But definitely worth trying or sharing with someone! I also had Sfogliatelle for the first time. This I could handle because they have mini versions. Though I could probably eat the entire full sized version because that’s how much I loved it! But I wouldn’t say that they are made equally at every café. I had quite a few of these and only one that I really loved. Usually, they are chocolate, custard, pistachio, or jam filled. I found one that was filled with Chantilly cream and that was heaven! I loved the crispiness of this pastry. I had the best charcuterie board at Pane E Salami (tavern style) near the Trevi Fountain. They also offer sandwiches, vegetarian boards, and bruschetta. The cured meats and tomatoes are just so much tastier in Italy! I dined at Coromandel (cozy breakfast spot near past Piazza Navona) and Tonnarello (very popular, casual family style restaurant with long lines), Osteria Ponte Sisto (charming, quaint), and Mama Eat (got pizza) all in the Trastevere neighborhood. I would have loved to have had time to check out La Rosetta (for seafood in the Pantheon vicinity, expensive), Roscioli (small, Michelin Rated, in Campe de Fiori area), Gelataria Valentino (Trevi), and Feffo for pastries (in Vatican). By the end of my Roman holiday, I could not eat anymore food or drink anymore wine. I wanted to try everything and my stomach was just not big enough to handle it all! I recommend having a coffee and pastry in the morning, a very light lunch, gelato or pastry as a snack, and then pasta or pizza for dinner. The Tiber river reminds me of the Siene in Paris. Live music, couples strolling by, dim lights. Very romantic. I will definitely be back in Italy and passing through Rome again. I would love to explore Puglia and I haven’t been to the Amalfi coast. Sardinia island sounds beautiful too. So many places to explore!

Lisbon (2 nights): My next stop was Lisbon, Portugal. It was my first time in Portugal and I absolutely loved it. People were not as friendly as in Italy, but it was still a great experience. Portugal reminded me of a European version of California. The food was delicious! All my favorites—clams and prawns simmered in garlic and wine. My meals were light because it was mostly seafood, which was more my vibe. Meals were significantly less expensive than the United States and for seafood too! I loved their Pastel de Nata egg custard tarts. Crispy, flakey goodness. Lisbon was still a lot of walking, with cobblestone streets and lots of hills, which was challenging for me after I had just completed an exhausting week in Italy. I wish I had more time in Lisbon actually. I stayed at My Story Hotel Ouro for 2 nights in the Baixa neighborhood, walked around the Alfama district, lunched at the Time Out Lisboa Market, explored the LX Factory (hipster, warehouse area converted into art studios, shops, a variety of restaurants with outdoor space and live music), and got Pastel de Natas at Manteigara. Many blogs suggest going to Bairro Alto for drinks, dinner, and nightlife. Personally, I did not like this area. It’s very hilly. The little cobblestone streets are charming but the area felt very trashy to me. Spring break college drunk vibe. I wouldn’t recommend this area or maybe I’m too old for it. I wouldn’t stay at My Story Hotel Ouro again. The service was not that friendly and the hallways wreaked of their perfume. The room was tiny. On my first night in Lisbon, I felt so worn down by all the travel and walking. My allergies were acting up and my body reacted to all the cigarette smoke. So all I wanted on my first night in Lisbon was noodle soup! Not too far from my hotel, I found Boa Bao and was pleasantly surprised at how delicious the Asian food was! I ordered the most amazing pho and duck bao. It’s a fun spot with a vibe. They offer a variety of modern Asian food. In addition to Boa Bao, I was surprised at how international Lisbon was. I also had the most delicious breakfast at Dear Breakfast in Alfama. I loved Antiga Wine Bar, bordering on the Alfama district as well. It’s small and quaint but has a really good light menu. I spent a day visiting Sintra, Pena Palace, and Cascais. This was part of a tour, but I personally, didn’t think it was worth it. I would have rather spent that time exploring more of Lisbon. The tour was $70 and didn’t even included tickets into the palace so basically it was a glorified taxi ride with multiple stops and a tour guide. If you want, you could visit the palace on your own by taking a train, which is so much cheaper. It’s only 30 minutes away. But my tour was all day because of all the stops. I found the tour sort of boring so I don’t recommend it. Spend more time in Lisbon. Avenida da Liberdade is their high end shopping district. I walked though it but unless you want to do some high end shopping, I didn’t think there was much to see. There might be some fun vibey restaurants to check out in that area though if you are looking for that.

Lagos (3 nights): After 2 days in Lisbon, I took the Rede Espresso bus (I purchased them online 2 days before) to the south of Portugal to explore Lagos in the the Algarve region. The bus ticket there was only $15 euro and the return ticket was $10 euro. It’s a 3.5 hour ride and it’s fairly comfortable with wifi and a toilet on board. Remember to bring 50 cents to use the bus toilet or get change from the driver during your ride. It’s located in the middle of the bus by the side entrance, labeled WC on level with the lower steps, lower than the seat level, almost hidden. I didn’t see it the first time because I was looking at the back of the bus or an elevated bathroom. On my first ride, I held in my bladder and didn’t drink any water for fear of needing to pee. I was dehydrated. I don’t want you to make the same mistake! The only reason I noticed the toilet on my second bus ride, back to Lisbon, was because I saw someone walk out of it. Anyway, that was a learning experience. You can also take a train to Lagos but I think it’s more expensive and not direct. You’d have to take the train to Faro and then switch trains to get to Lagos, whereas the bus is direct. Both take the same amount of time. I spent 3 nights and 3 days in Lagos and it was lovely! However, I would not recommend staying at the Tivoli Resort. It was awful! The photos on the website looked way better than reality. The service was terrible. My room was like a mile away from the front desk and uphill within the resort as well, and it was completely outdated and sort of creepy. The staff members were negative, unwelcoming and almost rude, unhelpful, and didn’t even offer to assist with my luggage. It was mostly occupied by senior citizens. The location was good though. It’s near the bus station and the train station and it’s only a 10 minute (uphill) walk into town. Old town is cute with so many shops and restaurants. Although, I’m not sure you need to stay near town. Uber is quite common in Portugal and a lot less expensive than taxis. You can stay further away for a better relaxed vacation vibe and just Uber into town. Or if you rent a car, even better. Some people I met in Lagos were staying at the Belmar Spa and Beach Resort and had highly recommended it. The reason I didn’t stay as far was because I was traveling solo and didn’t want to feel as isolated. But in hindsight, solo or not, being a little further away in a nicer spot would have made my trip more relaxing. There are only so many times you may even want to walk into old town. Casa Mae and Lagos Avenida hotels also looked like great options for a hotel in town, but a little pricier.

On my first full day, I Ubered (less than 10 minutes) to Praia de Don Ana because it was a recommended beach with dramatic cliffs. It was beautiful but the water had a lot of kelp which wasn’t pleasant to be in but was scenic for pictures. Near Praia de Don Ana is Carvi Beach Hotel where Lucas Rooftop restaurant is located. After the beach, I stopped here to have more Portuguese clams (Bulhao Pato). Then I Ubered (less than 10 minutes) to Ponte de Piedade cliffs where there are a group of breathtaking rock formations. These are the same rock formations that I saw on my boat tour the next day, but from a different angle. It was a little windy in this area so you have to be careful when taking photos as you can fall off the cliff! But it was seriously so beautiful. You can actually walk a lot of the coast of Lagos stopping at all the sights via Seven Hanging Valley trail, but I did not have the energy for more walking. I walked some of the trail because the walkway/path intersected at Ponte de Piedade and Praia de Don Ana. I walked by Praia de Camilo beach (another small beach with cliffs) from Ponte de Piedade but was too tired to explore that beach. It looked like it could have been nicer than Praia de Don Ana (perhaps cleaner without kelp?). It’s located right next to Camilo Restaurant, which looks like a good stop for good food and a view. I think that in hindsight, Praia de Camilo beach and Camilo restaurant for lunch would have been a better option vs Praia de Don Ana and Lucas Rooftop because you can walk there from Ponte de Piedade (which I really enjoyed). For laying out and enjoying the beach without kelp, I really enjoyed relaxing at Duna Beach. It’s an easy, white sand beach that stretches for miles. No dramatic cliffs or rocks but super relaxing, calm, clean, clear waters. It has several restaurants on the beach, so you can also stop for food and drinks easily without having to climb up steep steps. On my last day in Lagos, I went on an amazing half day (4 hour) Blue Cruise boat tour with Blue Fleet. It was so relaxing, which was the type of tour I was looking for. It was only $55 and included snacks, lunch, and unlimited drinks while you tour the coast and caves of the south of Portugal. They also give you time to swim. The boat has a small bathroom as well. I met the loveliest people on the tour. I had originally wanted to see the famous Benagil caves but all the tours from Lagos were speedboats and didn’t allow you to disembark so I didn’t think it was worth it. And it didn’t sound relaxing. April is preseason for boat tours though so there may be more options in the summer. Plus, Lagos is a bit far from Benagil. If you’re staying closer, perhaps in Portimao, there may be better tours offered to explore Benagil. My tour went up the coast past Ponte de Piedade, which is in the other direction. I dined at Mimar for wine and tapas and Don Sebastio (Michelin rated casual seafood restaurant with large portions) for seafood rice. I would have loved to try Restaurant de Artistas (also Michelin rated but fancier, small bites) but I was saving that special meal for my last night of my vacation in Lisbon. Mar D’Estorias was a cute little shop in town that also has a rooftop restaurant with a small menu. I also wanted to try Tasca Jota, London Tiger Coffee, Taberna Da Mo, Taninos Wine & Kitchen.

Lisbon (1 additional night): On my last night in Lisbon, Portugal, and my European vacation (2 weeks), I stayed at the My Story Hotel Figueira and loved it. Spacious room, lively restaurant, great service, and a central location. It was the perfect accommodation for the end of my trip. Not to be confused with the other My Story Hotels. I stayed at the My Story Hotel Ouro during the first part of my Lisbon trip and I did not like it at all. Tiny rooms, unfriendly, rude staff, and really strong, unpleasant perfume scented hallways and rooms. Fortunately, the Figueira location was so much nicer! Still had a similar perfume scent as the Ouro location, but a lot more mild. There are also alternative boat accommodation options (The Homeboat Company) at the marina that I think could be fun to stay at. If I had more time, I would have tried that! To celebrate my last night in Lisbon, I enjoyed a special 3 hour and 11 course meal at this charming Michelin rated restaurant on a cute street in the Principal Real district Chef Louise Bourrat won the French version of Bravo Top Chef and manages a women run kitchen. I sat front row at the kitchen bar and got to watch the chefs in action but their back patio is really charming as well. There were two tasting menus to choose from, one inclusive of seafood and meat and the other entirely vegetarian, with the option to add on a wine pairing. My favorite dish was the lamb, which is surprising because I hardly ever eat lamb. The amberjack hamachi was another favorite but all the dishes were delish It was the loveliest last night in Lisbon! I wish I had time to explore more of Principal Real because it looked charming and upscale. I would have loved to have had time for drinks and a bite at Lumi (upscale restaurant with a rootop terrace with a view in the upper part of Bairro Alto, need a reservation) and ceviche at A Cevicheria. If you’re looking for coffee shops, Comoba (near Time Out Market) and Hygge (near Avenue de Liberade) were also recommended to me. In addition to the clams and prawns, tinned fish, particularly sardines, are very popular in Portugal. I don’t love the idea of tinned fish so I didn’t try any at restaurants because I didn’t have anyone to share it with and preferred to pick other dishes. But I did buy some as gifts to bring back home. They serve their tinned fish on toast. Fish croquettes are also popular but I didn’t love it when I tried it. I much preferred ordering clams, prawns, and mixed seafood rice. Whenever I ordered clams or prawns, I’d order a side of rice and pour that into the leftover garlic sauce. Portugal very much reminded me of California. It was charming with it’s cobblestone streets, hills, views, coast, and colorful buildings with beautiful patterned tiles and romantic iron balconies. It’s very international and has delicious seafood. I would love to return and visit Porto and other parts of the Algarve region. I was surprised to have met so many Americans on this part of the trip, on my tours, and when I dined solo sitting at the restaurant bars.

Some travel tips: Most places accept credit card, but majority did not accept American Express. For the most part, you can get away with not bringing cash. However, a few coins were needed for toilets in public places, such as buses, bus stations, train stations, and tourist sights. Some taxis in Portugal did not accept credit card but that was before I discovered I could Uber. I didn’t Uber at all in Italy. It was not really available in Florence and in Rome, I didn’t even bother. It didn’t occur to me because in Florence, it wasn’t an option. We took the tram, mostly walked everywhere, and called a taxi if needed. But in Portugal, I’m thankful the hotel staff recommended Uber because it was less than half the cost of a taxi. Most people in both countries speak English. A great meal in Italy and Portugal are a fraction of the cost in the U.S. and you don’t need to tip. Wear comfy shoes because you’ll be walking a lot, over cobblestone, and uphill. I packed cute shoes, which I managed to wear to Boubou on my very last night in Lisbon but only because I Ubered. Most days, I wore sneakers. I brought one pair of day sneakers for all the walking (Vans) and a pair of nicer white sneakers for dinner and going out at night, that I could wear with pants or a dress. Nice shoes will be ruined with the cobblestone. Most hotels don’t provide water. If they do, it’s a small bottle and then they’ll over-charge you 3 euro to drink their small bottled water in their mini fridge. Better to go to a market and buy a big bottle of water for 60 cent to bring back to the hotel. Europeans often are on strike. You will encounter delays with flights, trains, and traffic because of protests, which they refer to as “manifestations.” Bring allergy meds because of the cigarette smoke. People will rudely smoke next you at a restaurant. Make dinner reservations. Europeans eat late. A lot of restaurants don’t even open until 12:30pm for lunch and 7pm or 7:30pm for dinner. If you want to eat at a restaurant without a reservation, I’d recommend going on the early end when it opens. Otherwise, you might get turned down or stuck waiting. Check out my Instagram for more photos and details of the restaurants I visited and meals I ate. All vacation story recaps are in my highlights. Make sure you like them, share, and follow me!

Oh gosh. Writing this blog post makes me really hungry. It also makes me wish I was still on vacay. The wonderful thing about vacation is that my only goal each day was to explore, try some place new, decide which delicious meal I’m going to eat next, go on a new adventure, and do something that brings me joy. It was all about embracing happiness and pleasure, which can be difficult to do at home when you’re stressed and overwhelmed. I enjoyed being forced to be present and disconnect a little bit from technology, reality, people, toxicity, and responsibilities. I haven’t done that in a long time. It was GREAT! I hope I can continue protecting those boundaries now that I am back home. I hope I can hold onto the peace that I felt there for a little bit longer. I’d like to practice integrating that peace and calm into my everyday life. I think I have awakened my travel bug. Where should I go next?

November Birthday in Oaxaca!

Each year, I try to plan a new adventure for my birthday. Usually international with the exception of last year, pre-vaccine. It softens the blow of getting older and helps me reframe the occasion to be a more joyous one. Once September hits, I get that back-to-school fall feeling even though I have not been in school in years. That nervousness of starting a new chapter, not knowing what to expect. That anticipation of the cold and dark winter coming. And that looming birthday, which marks the end of my personal year and forces me reaccess my life. Travel (and vacation) gives me something to look forward to and helps me get my mind off the stresses of adulthood. After such an amazing road trip to Valle de Guadalupe this past June, I decided to return to Mexico and explore Oaxaca. Many Californians like to visit Cabo, Playa del Carmen, and Puerto Vallarta, but I’m not really a beach resort type girl and I’m not a fan of the super touristy spots. I love quaint little towns, countrysides, nature, small little beach destinations, and boutique or unique accommodations.

My friend in Missouri joined me on my annual birthday adventure and we met up in Mexico City. If you’re meeting your friend at the airport in Mexico City, make sure you know your arrival terminal. We arrived at different terminals and it took us awhile to find each other. She had to take the tram from Terminal 1 to meet me in Terminal 2 and it took an hour to wait in line for a taxi. Make sure you purchase a taxi ticket and wait in line first thing. Traffic in Mexico City is pretty bad. Also, another tip. If you travel to Mexico in November, it’s super cold at night! Pack warm clothes. Except for a couple hours in the afternoon, most of the time, we were freezing! I packed mostly dresses! It felt colder than what the temperatures showed.

We only had a couple days in the city so I can’t say we had that much time to really explore the city other than visit some delicious restaurants—Cha Cha Terraza, Contramar, Quintonil, and Gin Gin—and take a boat ride at the Xochimilco canals. Cha Cha Terraza had a fun lively vibe for dinner and drinks on their upstairs terrace. Contramar had great seafood. Gin Gin is a great bar/lounge down the street from Contramar and has really good cocktails and music. Quintonil is super upscale with an option for a tasting menu. Even though Quintonil is a special culinary experience, it was a little stuffy. Indoors. No vibe. No ambiance. It was also expensive for Mexico standards. You could get an amazing meal at a more fun restaurant for half the price or less. We also stopped at Cafe Toscana next door to Buna cafe in Roma North for a snack and glass of wine mid-afternoon one day and both places were really cute.

In Mexico City, we first stayed at the Sofitel in Cuauhtémoc, which felt like downtown. Even though the area is close to Condesa and Roma North, it was very busy and not as nice. We also stayed at The Orchid House Hotel in Polanco, which I loved because it’s small and boutique. Polanco is Mexico City’s upscale neighborhood. It’s quaint, charming, and walkable. I would definitely stay here again. I had previously wanted to stay at Brick Hotel in Roma North, which is also a cute area, but the rooms were all booked. If you prefer the big hotels, but want to stay in Polanco, you could do The W or The Intercontinenal.

From Mexico City, we flew to Oaxaca. It is a short 1 hour flight. And just as I imagined, Oaxaca was amazing! So quaint and charming! Arts and crafts sold by street vendors. Markets with an array of textile, leather handbags, hats, and jewelry. Cobblestone roads. Decorative flags lined the street. Colorful buildings with beautiful exterior artwork. Old churches. Boutique hotels, delicious food, and great cocktails. Every meal we had was better than the last. I was in heaven!

One thing to note is that I made the majority of the restaurant reservations about two months in advance. Thinking that it would be warmer in Oaxaca, I chose many outdoor rooftop venues for dinner. While Oaxaca was hot during the day, it was even colder than Mexico City at night. Some of the places had heat lamps but they weren’t always working. On two different nights, a couple restaurants mentioned that they ran out of gas for the lamps, which made eating very uncomfortable. I would recommend dressing very warm or doing the rooftop spots during the day for lunch to enjoy the view.

We dined at Los Danzantes, Tierra del Sol, Casa Oaxaca, Criollo, and The Terrace on top of Hotel Los Amantes. While the food was good at all the restaurants, my favorites were Casa Oaxaca and Criollo. Criollo was where I had my birthday dinner and it was super special! The chef from Mexico City’s world renowned Pujol is part of the Criollo team. The only option at this restaurant is to enjoy their 6 course surprise tasting menu, which included a variety of Oaxacan dishes. Each plate was artfully presented and delicious! Casa Oaxaca was a pleasant surprise for lunch. They have rooftop dining. I loved the fresh table-side salsa, the sweet potato wrapped squash blossoms, the agua chile, and their corn-flan dessert. I had never had a CORN flan dessert before and I loved it! Tierra del Sol has a nice rooftop terrace view. They had really good tacos de lechon with chicharron wrapped up in what looked like a banana leaf. It was so good that we came back the next day on my birthday for lunch! The other dishes weren’t as good but we could have ordered the wrong items since they didn’t have an English menu. One thing I learned on this trip is that I love chicharron on everything! I ordered soup several times while in Oaxaca and it often included chicharron in the soup with Oaxacan string cheese, which is also very delicious. Downstairs in the same building of Tierra del Sol, there’s a little cafe that sells Atole, which is a soothing hot corn and masa based beverage that Oaxacans often drink for breakfast or at night. It comes in different flavors. Try it! It’s interesting and different. I liked it. Los Danzantes also served really good food. That’s where we dined on our first night in Oaxaca. But that Sunday night, it was really quiet. We had tortilla soup, mahi mahi and fresh garden tomato ceviche, and fresh short rib pasta.

Upstairs from Los Danzantes is their partner speakeasy bar called Selva. There’s no sign. The entrance is roped off with a man guarding the doorway. The bar is super charming with prohibition era vibes. Cocktails were pretty and carefully curated. Another bar we enjoyed was Sabina Sabe, which is a lot more casual but has great music and good cocktails. They serve food as well but we didn’t get a chance to try any. The rooftop at Hotel Los Amantes has great views for a sunset drink. They have a small bar downstairs that we liked as well. I think I ordered a mezcal cocktail with pineapple everyday in Oaxaca.

Aside from eating really well, I did a group tour to Hierve el Agua. Helpful tip: exchange your dollars for pesos. You will need it for the entrance fee, for the group buffet lunch, and also for mezcal purchases at the distillery (they have a high minimum for credit card purchases). The tour lasted all day because they include a few stops including a mezcal tasting, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Because of land disputes, we had to take the unpaved, bumpy road up the mountain to get to the pools. Once you get to the entrance/parking lot, you have the option of hiking 45 minutes down to see the petrified waterfalls or just going straight to the pools. Going down was not a huge problem but it was a little exhausting coming back up because of all the steps. It definitely gets you all heated up and ready to jump in the pools. But if you just want to take cute pictures and relax, skip the hike and just go straight to the pools and then you won’t have to worry about packing hiking clothes and sneakers along with your bathing suit and towel. The view was beautiful. Bonus: I made a few new friends on the tour because I went solo. My friend didn’t want to wake up at 7am to join the tour.

My friend and I stayed in 2 different hotels during our time in Oaxaca. The first few nights we stayed at Grana B&B, which is very quaint and quiet and the staff is so accommodating. We had a suite with 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, which was nice. Breakfast was included and is made to order and it was delicious. I don’t normally love yogurt but the yogurt was really good! Yogurt anywhere outside of the U.S. is really good, in my opinion. The location was central. We also stayed one night at Hotel Los Amantes, which has the most beautiful rooftop views. Great for sunset drinks and the food was pretty good as well. It’s made up of 2 buildings across from eachother in a central location not far from Grana B&B, with 2 rooftop restaurants, and a small bar downstairs. We stayed in the Cuishe room with 2 queen beds. While the room was nice, the hotel in general is a little loud because of the atrium and rooftop restaurants. But it was convenient to be able to just run upstairs for a cocktail or snack. Breakfast was included there as well and it was pretty good also.

The people of Oaxaca were so welcoming, nice, and helpful. The tourists we befriended were also so friendly. I loved Oaxaca and would definitely visit again! They have direct flights from Los Angeles to Oaxaca on Mexican airlines. I have to say that the best part for me was the food because as you know, I love food! They use grasshopper in a lot of dishes but it’s unrecognizeable. I’m not a huge fan of mole even though it’s a popular dish in this region. Though I did discover that I am a huge fan of chicharron, Oaxacan cheese, and mezcal cocktails. I love their fresh corn tortilla and chips and salsa. I regret that I didn’t get a chance to have churros or hot chocolate while I was in Oaxaca and Mexico City. Check out my Instagram to see all the yummy food I ate!

I can’t wait to see more of Mexico. I want to visit Guadalajara, the town of Tequila, San Miguel, Matzalan, and maybe Puerto Escondido next. This vacation was such a nice reset. I felt like I was fully able to unplug from work and the stresses of life. It has been such a long time since I’ve been on a week long trip that did not involve any sort of work. Weekend road trips don’t count because you get those days off anyways. I’m already looking forward to another vacay. It has been hard for me to focus on work after returning from such a good trip. Plus, we’re right smack in the middle of the holidays. All I want to do is curl up on the couch and watch Christmas movies. This year is flying by too fast. And my post-vacay blues are setting in. I need to plan my next adventure soon. What’s next on your travel list?

Escape to Valle de Guadalupe

I love road trip adventures and Valle de Guadalupe has been on my list for awhile. But then, you know, pandemic happened. And crossing the Mexican border by car felt a little daunting. I’ve never done it before and didn’t know how it worked. To my surprise, it wasn’t as complicated as I had anticipated and I had the most amazing time! I loved Valle de Guadalupe!

My friend drove her SUV and added Mexico coverage onto her car insurance for an additional $70. From Los Angeles, it took only 2.5 hours to get to the San Ysidro border on a Thursday morning. Prior to crossing the border, we made sure to stop in Chula Vista to fill up on gas and use the restrooms in case there would be any delays at the border. The border crossing was pretty simple and seamless. No one even checked our passports. We drove through easily and quickly.

We took the more common coastal route through Mexico. We passed through 2 toll stations that are $2 usd each, so it was helpful that we brought small usd bills. About 30 minutes from the border is Puerto Nuevo, where we stopped for a seafood lunch oceanside at Villa Ortega. My friend and I shared one combo dish with 2 lobster tails, shrimp scampi, rice, beans, veggies, and tortilla and it cost us $16 usd each. Pretty good deal for lobster by the sea! They served us the freshest, softest giant tortilla ever! It was soooo good! This giant tortilla is still on my mind and I don’t even normally eat tortilla. You can also really taste the corn in the tortilla chips they serve you first. A pit stop for lunch here is a must so definitely make sure you schedule that in!

From Puerto Nuevo, Valle de Guadalupe is about an easy hour drive along the coast and then through mountainsides (not scary though). Once you arrive in Valle, some of the roads are bumpy with potholes and some roads are completely unpaved. The area is still newish and developing but there is still so much beauty. There are many amazing wineries, restaurants, and hotels that are not visible from the main road. Some initially appear obscure off a dirt path, but then behind the trees or gate is an enchanting resort or a luxury glamping site on the other side. There are so many unexpected little treasures like that in Valle. With the exception of the vineyards, resorts, and select areas, the landscape in general was very dry, with cacti and mounds of rocks.

To me, Valle de Guadalupe is a perfect combination of Joshua Tree desert vibes merged with Santa Barbara or Napa Valley Wine country, but even cooler. I am a huge fan of Joshua Tree and deserts in general so this merging of the two vibes really appealed to me. Restaurants and hotels overlook the vineyards with the mountains in the backdrop. Everywhere you went, there was a beautiful view. In California wine country, there are scenic views as well but usually the restaurants and hotels are located in town several miles away from the vineyards and views. In order to enjoy the backdrop of the vineyards in California, you have to be wine tasting and picnicking. But in Valle de Guadalupe, you can enjoy them all day, everywhere you go.

We booked our trip only a week in advance and stayed in the last available exclusive suite at Hotel Boutique Valle de Guadalulpe. The room was nice, clean, and simple. It would have been better if we had a room with a balcony or patio or a direct view of the vineyards but you have to pay extra for that. This resort was lovely and the staff was super friendly. The pina coladas were so delicious. There is a separately operated spa on the property grounds, which has a pool with a direct view of the vineyard but you have to pay for access to it. Our pool was nice but it was centered on the property where the vineyards were not visible. We wanted to get massages at the spa but it was $120 usd, which is about the same price as in California, and the spa day pass was $75. There were a couple other options for massages offsite that were a little less expensive but not necessarily that much cheaper than the U.S. so we decided to forego it all together. The spa on the property does offer yoga classes on the weekends though at a discounted rate of $15 for hotel guests if you want to experience the spa and get a light work out in.

Now, onto the best part of Valle de Guadalupe—the food! You definitely need to make reservations in advance. It seems that people generally eat early. Restaurants are not open that late. Wine country is more of a relaxed and sleepy vibe. All the food in Guadalupe is amazing and definitely a lot less expensive than the U.S. for delicious, elevated seafood meals with wine. Plus, you get large portions for the cost, which was a lot of food for two petite women.

For dinner our first night, we visited Finco Altazano, located off a dirt road behind a guarded gated entry. This large open-air restaurant overlooks the vineyards and has a stable for goats on the property. They have giant life-size wine barrels made for guests to climb up, hang out on, sip wine, and enjoy the views. There is also a huge plot of land next to the restaurant with an arch that looks perfect for a wedding venue. The restaurant served elevated food, fairly reasonable sized plates, with a variety of options in a relaxed, casual, farm-style atmosphere. We ordered all seafood and it was delish and the wine was amazing too. We had their tuna tostada, their grilled octopus in a light sauce, and their catch of the day served with greens. For dessert, we ordered their panna cotta and their basque cheesecake. Everything was delicious but my favorite was their lavender white chocolate panna cotta! It was the most amazing panna cotta I’ve ever had! It is still on my mind and I wish I could have more. Everything about Finco Altazano was so charming and I would definitely visit again. It was my favorite restaurant from the trip.

On our second day, we visited the popular local farmhouse La Cocina Don de Esthela. It’s indoors, cash only, with no air conditioning, and located up a hill off a dirt road. We arrived at 11:30am on Friday and thought we were early for lunch but apparently not. We had to wait an 1 hour and 15 minutes for a table. The host initially quoted 40 minutes, which didn’t sound that bad. But over an hour is ridiculous! The meal was local and very good though. The menu was all in Spanish so we sort of guessed what to order. We got a half portion of the popular plate of the Borrego Tastemado, which I think is a slow cooked shredded beef or lamb dish that comes with tortilla and a side of consomme. The meat was juicy and moist and the consomme was really flavorful. We also ordered a quasotaco with chicharron but the chicharron was too hard for me to chew and I didn’t want to crack my teeth! It was a lot of food and only cost $9 each. While the meal was delicious and inexpensive, I do not think it was worth waiting over an hour for.

After that long lunch, we went to Decantos Vinecola for wine tasting. It was not too far from our hotel and located at the end of a dirt road after Baron Balche winery. We wanted to visit both but our lunch took up too much time. Decantos is a large winery with great outdoor space and unobstructed vineyard views. They did not require a reservation in advance but most of the other vineyards do, especially the larger ones. Wine tasting was less than $12 for 3 wine tastings, which you can enjoy on their lawn. They serve cocktails and food here too but we didn’t get a chance to try any of it because there was only so much we could eat and drink in one day. I enjoyed all of the wine I tasted here.It was easy to visit and not crowded at all.

Dinner on our 2nd and last night was at Fauna, located a litte further away at Bruma hotel and winery. The road getting to the restaurant is a dirt road that will bring you to a guarded gate, then you drive along a manicured tree-lined path that leads you to the restaurant set on a small hill above the vineyards. Bruma is upscale and sophisticated and the property feels very exclusive. Fauna was definitely a different experience than Finca the first night. The restaurant itself was smaller. It has shared communal tables and was very lively and packed with loud music. They have indoor seating, patio seating, outdoor seating and bar area seating in the back. It would be a fun destination for a larger group.

The menu options at Fauna were very limited and not descriptive so we weren’t sure what to expect when the dishes came out. There was only one wine option for red, white, and rose but I didn’t really like the one white wine they had. The tiki cocktail I ordered next was simple and a little disappointing as well. We ordered the ceviche, the clams, grilled lettuce, shredded lamb, and the churros. My friend and I were dying for fresh greens because we ate so much meat and seafood but they didn’t have any raw green choices. Even the lettuce we ordered was grilled. The dishes were good and well made but quite large and very hearty, rich, and heavy. Although I enjoyed the meal, nothing really stood out to me. The ambiance was fun but a bit too loud. I’m not sure I would visit this particular restaurant again but I did love the property. As we drove out, we noticed that there was another restaurant on the property underneath the trees called Casa Ocho Wine Garden. I couldn’t find a link for this and I don’t think you need a reservation. We drove up to it and the guard invited us to go take a look but we didn’t because we were too tired and full from dinner. From the outside, it looked really charming with its open-air concept, outdoor tables located underneath the trees, outdoor string lights, and an open grill kitchen. Definitely on my list for next time!

On our last day, Saturday, we dined at Casa Frida for lunch. It is located off the main road. It has multiple restaurants (including an oyster bar), rooftop bar, vineyard, winery, and Airbnb all on its large property. It’s casual but also lively and fun. Apparently, Frida is a popular spot for weekend nights but I’ve heard it might be a long wait to pull into the parking lot to get in. We enjoyed good wine and some great bites for lunch. We ordered a shrimp aquachile in a black sauce (similar to ceviche), tuna crudo, duck quasadillas, and coconut panna cotta. It was a lovely last meal in Guadalupe.

Crossing over the border and coming back to the U.S. was a little more complicated. The traffic was insane near that area. Finding the right lane was so confusing. There is a general lane, ready lane, and sentri (global entry) lane. The roads leading to the border crossing included massive rotaries and loops that made getting to the border a little intimidating. But we survived. Once we made our way to the right lane (which took about 20 min), then it was about a 30 minute wait to get through the border. They checked our passports and we breezed right through. No fees, car check, or questions asked.

I absolutely loved Valle de Guadalupe! More than I thought I would. I did not anticipate it being a blend of Joshua Tree and California wine country and I loved that it was! The unique variety of accommodations, the glamping, the architecture, the design, the views, and the landscape all had so much character and charm. The food was amazing, which is important to me everywhere I travel. I didn’t expect Guadalupe to have such a delicious offering of seafood dishes. The area is still being developed and I think it will blow up in the next few years. Now is definitely the time to visit. It’s closer to Los Angeles than Napa. It’s only an hour further from Los Angeles than Santa Barbara wine country. And it’s more affordable than both those destinations. It was exactly what my soul craved—a getaway, a chance to relax, be present, and recharge. I was so impressed by everything during the entire trip that I felt fully present and in the moment, as I enjoyed every sip of wine, every single bite I tasted, all the vineyards, the breathtaking sunset views, and the moments by the pool drinking pina coladas.

If you plan to visit, here are a few tips. Leave on off days like Thurs-Sat to avoid traffic if you can. It also helps with getting cheaper and available accommodations, as hotels tend to book up fast since it’s not a large area. Add on Mexico coverage through your car insurance. Download an offline google map in case you don’t have Mexico phone coverage or if connection is bad. Get gas and use the restroom before you cross the U.S. border into Mexico. Conversely, use restrooms and don’t drink a lot of water when you approach the border leaving Mexico because you don’t know how long you will have to wait in line to cross over. There will be rest stops between Valle and the border, after Puerto Nuevo. Pack closed-toe shoes such as booties or wedges because you will be walking along dirt paths and your feet will be filthy and probably uncomfortable. I brought flip flops, converses, flat open toe sandals (because they worked with my outfit more but I kind of regretted it), and booties. Bring a hat because the sun is strong and it does get hot. Carry some cash for tolls, tips, and local eateries. Make reservations in advance for restaurants and wineries. Keep in mind that some restaurants and wineries require a deposit online when making reservations. Don’t order too much because some of the portions are large. Give yourself the opportunity to try food at multiple places including the wineries. Research restaurants and winery locations in advance so that you can plan your day out smoothly and not have to drive to opposite ends of the region to visit each place.

Three days and two nights was the perfect amount of time for the trip and I probably could have stayed another night. There are still so many restaurants and wineries on my list that I want to try. I took note of places we drove by that looked really cool. Here is a list of some places I’d like to do more research on and possibly explore next time I visit:

RESTAURANTS:

Casa Ocho Wine Garden in Bruma Hotel - casual outdoor restaurant under the trees

Deckman’s

Animalon - upscale restaurant, requires a deposit when making a reservation

Latitud 32 restaurant - located in El Cielo winery

Adobe Food Truck - casual tapas and wine with outdoor seating

WINERIES:

El Cielo -requires prepayment when making a reservation

Monte Xanic

Xecue Vinecola

ACCOMMODATIONS: (I haven’t researched these so they may be high-end and not budget friendly but definitely worth looking into)

Bruma Hotel

Oeno Hotel

Encuentro Guadalupe Hotel

Lumi Hotel

La Cima del Valle Hotel

For more photos, food pics, and videos from Valle de Gaudalupe, visit me on Instagram. There is a Highlight Reel in my profile of all my Insta stories from the trip. Check it out! I will also be working on a Valle de Guadalupe Reel and will be posting that soon so follow me and be on the look out for it! When you do, please share, like, comment, and support. And subscribe to my blog. I hope my trip inspires you to visit Valle de Guadalupe yourself or to plan your next adventure!