Summer 2025: Boston, Newport, Prague, Corfu, Albania, and Amsterdam

Hello again! I know it has been awhile. This year’s had a pretty insane start—with the LA fires, the new administration, and just life as usual. But I’m back! I had a lovely start to summer and now it’s already almost over. Visited my family in Boston, saw Hozier in concert at Fenway Park, road-tripped to Newport, Rhode Island, and bopped around Europe to places that hadn’t been on my radar before. So let’s recap. Proceed with caution. This will be a very long post.

I usually don’t travel during the summer because it’s too crowded, touristy, and expensive. Plus, LA is already a vacation destination. I usually prefer traveling late spring or early fall. And after returning from my recent travels, I am reminded of why I don’t typically travel during the summer. It’s too hot and uncomfortable walking almost twenty thousand steps a day during the summer heat. I sweated through all my clothes and had to do laundry halfway through my trip. I don’t regret it. I had the best time. It was so lovely having a fun start to the summer and actually having plans for once. But I was completely exhausted and dehydrated.

Every time I return to Boston to visit my parents, I love exploring a new part of New England. This year, I chose Newport, Rhode Island. It was a fun little getaway even though it started with some June gloom. We stayed at the Wyndham Newport Hotel. The rooms were spacious. They have a gym, indoor pool, and shuttle service into the main town center. Town center is close by but parking can be expensive, so the shuttle was a nice perk that guests really should take advantage of. We enjoyed some good food at Yagi Noodles, Giusto, and Newport Vineyards. Yagi is a good spot for ramen and other Asian bites. Giusto has delicious Italian food and is located directly on the wharf. We stopped by Newport Vineyards on the way out and it has a fun restaurant vibe, extensive menu, and great views for photos. I was actually surprised that I enjoyed the food there so much. Overall, Newport was an easy quick getaway from Boston. Some of the highlights were the Cliff Walk, the Forty Steps, and the beaches and lighthouses along the beautiful coastal Ocean Drive.

June in Boston was so lovely, but there was a brutal heatwave during part of my visit. I tried some new restaurants, including Cafe Sauvage, Little Whale Oyster Bar, and Beacon 1928. Cafe Sauvage is a French Cafe on Mass Ave in Backbay with lavender matcha (my favorite), Nutella crepes, and croissant sandwiches. Little Whale Oyster Bar is located on Newbury Street. I had a delicious lobster pasta and endive and beet salad there. Then I took my parents to Beacon 1928 for their anniversary and really loved it! Beacon Hill is such a cute neighborhood and I had never really spent much time there before. The restaurant was charming and quaint and had that old school vibe. The dishes were unexpected and so good! We ordered the red snapper ceviche, beet salad, fried cauliflower, truffle mushroom gnocchi, steak frites, and my absolute favorite dessert—sticky toffee pudding! Our server was lovely and super accommodating too, allowing me to order half portions when I couldn’t decide between dishes. I cannot wait to come back here! I think it might be my new favorite, but I’m not sure if something can be a favorite if you’ve only had it once. So I definitely have to come back!

My absolute favorite part of my Boston trip, aside from seeing my family of course, was the Hozier concert! My entire trip back to Boston was actually planned around the Hozier concert at Fenway Park. I can’t remember if I’ve ever been to Fenway Park before, but I imagine I must have because I grew up in Boston. Maybe on a school field trip? If so, I have no memory of it. Anyway, the idea of seeing Hozier in Boston in Fenway Park felt like an iconic experience I couldn’t miss. I had floor seats, but it was not close enough to the stage to see his facial expressions. I wondered if it even mattered since most of the time, I found myself staring at the big screens for his up-close shots. I wondered if the general admission pit (standing only) directly in front of the stage would have been worth it? Walking out onto the field took my breath away! And then seeing Hozier perform live was magical! I had been listening to his latest album on repeat since the beginning of the year and knew all his songs, which is rare for me going into a concert. I had been following his tour on social media since May when it began. It was an unforgettable experience and I wish I went to see him that second night he performed. Because of the heatwave, people were skipping the concert and selling their tickets online. I would have gladly sat through the heatwave again to see him perform for a second time, but I felt guilty at the thought of paying for tickets to see the same artist perform two nights in a row. But now, I regret that I didn’t do it. I was too excited and busy recording his performance on my phone that first night that I’m not sure I was fully present. It would have been 100 percent worth it to see him again! He is so amazing live. Maybe for his next tour, I’ll see him in another city.

I generally like to travel abroad every year, but I had been feeling uninspired lately and didn’t feel motivated to go anywhere, which is so unlike me. The only reason I had plans to travel to Boston was because I had bought the Hozier concert tickets in February, but other than that, I didn’t have any other travel plans and had been really feeling like I needed a change of scenery. I have a friend who lives in Prague and was looking for a travel partner for Corfu and Albania. The main flights to Prague from Boston were through Amsterdam. Since I was already going to be in Boston, it made sense to add on a trip to Europe because it was closer. So we decided fairly last minute to book the trip. These destinations weren’t places I had on my list previously, but I am happy that I got the chance to visit. I had an amazing time and was surprised how much I enjoyed all these countries. It was nice to have a trip exceed my expectations. It was a bit confusing and exhausting though, bopping around four different countries with three different currencies, and two different time zones. Even though the Czech Republic is part of the EU, they use their own currency in koruna. Corfu is part of Greece, uses euros, and is in a different time zone. Albania is not part of the EU and uses lek. I had a pretty packed itinerary during the height of the summer heat, which I wouldn’t recommend.

Since my friend lives in Prague and there were direct flights from there to Corfu, I chose it as my first European destination. I arrived in Prague from Boston after a layover in Amsterdam. I only had two days/one night in Prague before we had to leave for Corfu and Albania. After the Corfu/Albania leg of the trip, I had planned to return to Prague for another two nights/one day before leaving for the last leg of my trip to Amsterdam. Prague was quiet, old worldly, and understated. We had some really good food there. It was pretty inexpensive. Loved their muddled raspberry lemonades with soda water. Ordered this everywhere. It’s such a refreshing cooler in the summer heat. We enjoyed a really good first dinner at Alma, which I would describe as a casual, modern, upscale, and trendy restaurant. Dinner, which included a cocktail, one main each, and a shared dessert, cost less than 50 euros each, and that was considered expensive over there. Can’t get that in LA! I had the most satisfying gelato at Angelato. Loved the mango and stracciatella flavors. Enjoyed a nice lunch on the patio of Pauseteria. I really wanted to try Cafe Savoy, but it was closed for renovations during my visit. My last dinner in Prague was at a traditional Czech spot that is known for duck called U Modre Kachnicky. I love duck so I was excited to experience Czech duck. It was rich and very filling. They had a sweet version and a savory one and I think I preferred the sweet roasted one.

Another restaurant that was recommended to me was Restaurant Mlynec in Old town, but I got there too late. One thing to note about Prague is that restaurants often close their kitchen over an hour, maybe even two, before the restaurant is supposed to close. I found this odd and misleading. I stopped at the restaurant at 1pm because their website stated that brunch was served till 3pm, but was turned away and informed that the kitchen had already closed for that meal service. Another time I stopped at a restaurant for dinner at 8:30pm because the restaurant website listed that they were open till 10pm, but the kitchen was already closed. That was annoying. So watch out for this if you visit!

Shopping at mainstream stores (like Zara, Mango, and H&M) was pretty good in Prague. It was quieter and less touristy than other popular European cities and way less expensive than the U.S.—almost 30-40% less, with a better assortment and size availability! It was pretty easy to take the trams (they use the trust system so no need to swipe) all over the city. The famous castle was beautiful, but I didn’t realize you could take the tram to the back of the castle to avoid an uphill hike. So I made the hike up and down and it was exhausting! It was fun to hang out at Letna park at the top of a hill and have a beer at the beer garden while enjoying the city and river views. I also visited the astronomical clock, walked across Charles bridge, saw the Lennon Wall, and strolled along the river.

Next stop, Corfu. We flew there via Ryan Air and experienced delays during both our departing and returning flights. The seafood in Corfu was amazing! We had a delicious lunch at Rex Restaurant in Old Town. It was about 41 USD each for a seafood lunch without alcohol. Loved their fish carpaccio. They tend to use a lot of kumquat in their dishes, which was a nice complement to carpaccio. The best gelato was at Papagiorgis Patisserie. They had a ricotta with ginger, honey, orange that was incredible. Old Town is small and while it’s fun for souvenirs (like acacia wood kitchen products), small beach views (these smaller beaches in Old Town had small pebbles instead of sand, which can be uncomfortable walking on), and restaurants, the other side of the island had better beaches and cliffside views.

We spent one night/one day in Corfu before we took a ferry to Albania for 3 nights and then had planned to return to Corfu for one more night/day after Albania before catching our returning flight to Prague. A lot of my trip was like this, sandwiching destinations with the same city before and after, which made my trip extra exhausting. Half of my two-week trip was travel days, spent on the go between destinations. Midway through, I just wanted to stay still, in one place, without having to pack and catch a plane, train, or ferry!

Our last night/day in Corfu was spent on the other side of the island, a 45 min taxi drive away from the town center, at an adults-only all-inclusive resort on the cliffside called Alkyna Lifestyle Beach Resort. It was so wonderful! I wish we could have stayed here more than one night! I didn’t think I would like an all-inclusive resort, but maybe that’s because I had never been to a luxurious one before! It made everything so easy! Especially since we were so exhausted from our travel excursions and desperately needed some relaxation. The food was pretty good for buffet. Aside from the main buffet restaurant, they had only one other proper restaurant on-site that had a la carte menu options, but it was reservations only, and was already booked up when we arrived, unfortunately. The property was beautiful, but was so busy during sunset and post-dinner hours, it was difficult to find lounge seats at their rooftop terrace bar and indoor/outdoor terrace lounge. Loved our room. Loved the amenities. The beach was gorgeous and relaxing. The water was clear and generally calm. There weren’t too many people. Because it was a private beach, we didn’t have to worry about leaving our belongings on our daybed while we dipped in the ocean. It was a lot of walking to get up and down the property though since it’s hillside. If needed, you can call for a driver to come get you with a golfcart.

I would totally visit Corfu again and spend more time on this side of the island. Corfu was not a cheap destination though. It was definitely more expensive than Prague and Albania, but still cheaper than the U.S. If I was there solo, it would have been even pricier because the taxi ride to the other side of the island was about 50 euros alone and short rides from town center to the airport or to the ferry were 25 euros even though it was only a 10-15 minute ride.

The easiest way to get to the Albania Riviera is by way of a thirty-minute fast ferry from Corfu, which was why Corfu was added to our itinerary. The ferry ticket was about 36 USD each way. We stayed at the Niklas Boutique Hotel a few minutes away from the main promenade of Sarande in Albania. The promenade was too touristy and a bit grungy for me. Our room at Niklas had a minimalist aesthetic. It was clean, spacious, and had a balcony with views of the promenade and ocean. The hotel host, Alejandro, was so lovely. Breakfast was included every morning. Our first dinner was at Taverna Fish Filipi, a popular local restaurant close to the hotel. It was fantastic! And so affordable. I probably had the best crab spaghetti I’ve ever had for less than 9 USD! It was messy and a lot of work breaking through the crab shell to get the meat with my hands, but it was so worth it. The sauce was light and super garlicky. I still think about that dish. Our total meal was 39 USD for two people! That included wine, shared appetizer, one main each, and a shared dessert. We also had seafood at Haxhi on the promenade that was also good and had a more fun vibe. Restaurants on the promenade were still affordable but a little more expensive. A plate of seafood pasta might be 16-20 USD vs 9 USD. Fish carpaccio in Albania is more commonly served with passion fruit and strawberry versus the kumquat in Corfu.

We took a day trip to Ksamil for the beaches, which felt too touristy and a bit like a club with the DJs and crowds. I think if you walk past the main area, it might be quieter. But we took the bus and had to walk from the bus stop to the beach in the heat. After walking for 30 minutes, we gave up and stopped at the nearest beach club where you have to pay 12 USD for a daybed that wasn’t close enough to the water for us to feel safe leaving our belongings unguarded. Even though the waters were super clear and really calm, there were just too many people around to enjoy it. So many kids and floaties in the water. I would recommend paying for a taxi and going further along the coast. Some people we met at our hotel had recommended walking to Sea La Vie beach club, but we had walked 30 minutes and still hadn’t reached it. I also think staying in Ksamil might be worth it vs just doing a day trip. You could prob divide your trip—stay for half the time in Ksamil and the other half in Sarande. That way, you could choose a quieter location as a base and get to enjoy the beaches more.

While in Sarande, we did a group tour to Blue Eye natural springs, an old castle on top of the hill that overlooked Sarande, and the stone wall city of Gjirokastër. We also took a separate trip to Butrint National Park to see the Roman Ruins. While on the side of the coast visiting Butrint and Ksamil, we stopped by The Mussel House on the water for a late lunch. It’s a mussel farm (they also have group tours) and restaurant. Every restaurant we went to, we ordered fish carpaccio. While the food was good here, my favorite meal was at Taverna Fish Filipi. It had the best seafood, was super cheap, and had a more local family vibe. So it’s not a place you would go to for a night out, but definitely a place to check out for good food.

Overall, I really enjoyed The Albanian Riviera. Super affordable, great food, friendly people. I would probably spend less time near the promenade though, and more time exploring the towns away from the main area. After this trip, I am now curious about exploring other parts of The Balkans, like Croatia and Montenegro.

Prague, Corfu, and Albania had been about 90 degrees each day. I had sweated through all my clothes and had to do laundry at my friend’s place in Prague before I left for the last leg of my trip. I was happy that I wore every single outfit though. Made me feel like I packed my carryon luggage efficiently. Even still, I was missing some key summer staples for traveling in that type of heat. Like more shorts, linen, and crochet outfits. By the time I got to Amsterdam, I was happy for some solo chill time on my own, but I was too tired to do anything! My feet ached and I was exhausted from walking seven miles a day every day. I was dehydrated and sleep-deprived. Plus, it was so cold and gloomy in Amsterdam. In the 60s for my first two days there, which was a drastic drop from the rest of my trip. I didn’t bring any warm clothes except my airplane clothes, which I didn’t want to wear for the next three days straight. I had to go shopping to get a couple of pieces of warmer clothes to swap into. I stayed at the Kimpton de Witt Hotel by the canals near Central Station. It was an easy walk from the train station, but I feel like it was a little further away from all the places I wanted to visit. Not terribly far, as it was still in the Central neighborhood, but because I was exhausted and at the end of my trip, every 15 min walk felt far. The hotel was nice, but a bit pricey (it would have been cheaper had I booked even one week earlier) considering I didn’t have a view (it was of a wall) and we weren’t located directly off the canal. But I liked my room. It was a good size, not too small, not too big. I liked that the hotel hosted happy hour every night in the lobby. The tram stop was in front of the hotel so that was also convenient.

My favorite eats in Amsterdam were: Chun Cafe, Pat’s Poffertjes, Bakkerijwolf, and Restaurant Domenica. Chun Cafe had the most delicious toast sandwiches and matcha. I liked it so much, I came back for a second time! You may see on social media that there are long lines because it’s a popular spot, but if you go first thing when it opens at 10am, you will have no problem getting in. There are two locations and I think the one closer to Central Station might be less crowded. I loved their ribeye bulgogi and garlic shrimp toasts. Maybe the garlic shrimp toast over the bulgogi. Very filling. I also tried their banana cloud matcha and their strawberry matcha and both were such a nice sweet treat! It was about 25 USD for a matcha and a toast. Poffertjes are mini Dutch pancakes and usually come with powdered sugar, but you can add on other toppings such as nutella and bananas. These were light, soft, and delicious! You can probably get them from any vendor, but Pat’s Poffertjes has multiple locations and was easy to find. Bakkerijwolf was a cute, casual cafe in The Nine’s area. I had a great watermelon beet salad there. I wanted to try their sticky toffee pudding but completely forgot to order it at the end of my meal. Restaurant Domenica was my special treat on the last night of my trip and it was fantastic! Modern Italian food and excellent service. I had the tomato burrata salad, langoustine linguine, and bigne dessert with pecan gelato. I definitely recommend it! It was about 87 USD for three courses and two glasses of wine at this upscale Italian restaurant (they charge 20 euros upon booking and deduct it from your final check).

I was also excited to try Indonesian food in Amsterdam upon learning that there was a large Indonesian community. I went to the popular Sampura restaurant and ordered a small rijsttafel (this translates to rice table), which is basically an Indonesian table sampler adapted by the Dutch. I was expecting it to be better or maybe I didn’t go to the right spot. But for a casual solo meal, I thought it was expensive at 71 USD for just me. This included the small table sampler, a side order of noodles because I was still hungry, and one cocktail. Service was not great because they were busy and almost didn’t even let me walk-in. Even though it had good ratings, I’d probably skip this spot. While in Amsterdam, I had to try pannenkoeken, which are regular Dutch pancakes. To me, they sort of tasted like open crepes, but slightly thicker. The one I had at Dutch Pancake Masters was a bit too rich for me. I prefer poffertjes. But maybe Upstairs Pancakes would have been better? It’s a popular choice among travelers and it looks like they have more options for flavors. Another place I checked out was Zero Zero for a quick sandwich. I discovered this spot on TikTok and was drawn to the idea of a focaccia sandwich with mortadella and stracciatella. But the focaccia was not soft. It was more thin and crispy and there was not enough filling. So I wouldn’t recommend this place either if it comes up in your search.

In terms of sightseeing in Amsterdam, I visited the Van Gogh museum and did a cheese and wine canal tour. The Van Gogh museum was quite small (and if you’re looking for Starry Night, that’s at The MoMA in NYC), but I enjoyed learning more about his life and seeing his other works. The canal tour was relaxing and beautiful on the one sunny day that I had in Amsterdam. However, Flagship Viator tours were awful with communication so choose your tour wisely. They emailed me the day before my tour date to inform me that my time-slot was canceled and to choose another. I chose another and they never responded back. I emailed them again two more times asking for confirmation, but there was no response. Finally, on the day of the tour, my last day in Amsterdam, I didn’t know what to do since I didn’t have much wiggle room. I showed up for the earlier time slot that I had selected in my email back to them since my time slot was supposedly canceled. Planned my whole morning around it, only to be told that I was not allowed on that tour and that I should have known because I didn’t get confirmation. Basically, they didn’t take accountability and they blamed me. They claimed my time slot was never canceled and that I needed to wait for my time. It was a bit annoying to deal with, but I would still recommend doing a canal tour, but just not with them.

If I had more time in Amsterdam and wasn’t so exhausted, I would have wanted to check out Vondel Park, visit another museum, try more restaurants, do a daytrip to Zaanse Schans, and explore some local markets. I couldn’t visit Anne Frank’s house because it booked up months in advance. I took the tram all around the city, but still did a significant amount of walking. The neighborhoods and canals were so charming. I walked through the Red-light district out of curiosity. That was interesting. Even though I enjoyed Amsterdam and would probably visit again (it’s only about a 7 hour direct flight from Boston), I found it to be a bit pricey for food and accommodations, probably the most expensive city of this trip. I also thought the city was a little lonely solo. There were groups of friends everywhere hanging out by the canal, having coffee or beer together. It felt more like a social city, especially in the summer. I did like how easy it was to get around the city via tram (you have to swipe getting on and off which was a bit annoying especially if the tram was crowded and you need to rush off or have luggage) and to get into the city from the airport via train to Central Station (only a 15 min ride from the airport for maybe 6 euros one way). But you definitely have to watch out while you’re walking around because you could easily get hit by a cyclist! They are everywhere and moving in every direction at a fairly fast speed!

When I returned home to LA, it took me a week to recover and a month for my feet to feel normal again. My feet stayed tender for awhile and a big patch of skin on the bottom peeled off towards the balls. I was in desperate need of a body and foot massage. I’m grateful for this unexpected summer adventure, but I am also happy to be home again. Including my time in Boston, I was gone for 5 weeks total!

You know what was nice about being on vacation though? Having to get dressed up and wear make-up every day with an agenda. Working remotely and living alone in LA, I really don’t have to get dressed at all if I don’t want to. Sometimes, I don’t leave the house for days (I know, it’s terrible). It was nice being forced to present myself to the world and have a purpose each day, rather than sitting alone at home at a computer. I do miss that. I probably wore more outfits on my summer vacation than I have all year! Isn’t that crazy? My clothes just don’t get used as much anymore these days. Once back home, I bought a few more summer items that I felt I was missing on my European vacay like linen shorts, flowy linen dress, crochet outfit for the beach, bathing suit cover up, a new bikini, and a straw purse. I don’t really need these items now, but for my next vacation, I will be ready! Wherever that may be! It’s so much fun planning outfits and packing.

Maybe I need to romanticize my life in LA more and make every day feel more like vacation. I’ve tried to be more intentional about it before, but it’s easy to fall back into a routine. Life just gets in the way sometimes. Traveling reminds me that there is a bigger world out there. It inspires me and resets my soul, and every once in a while, we all just need a reboot.

Food Tour: San Sebastian & Porto

I know it has been almost a year since I’ve written. It has been weighing heavily on me and I had been mentally beating myself up for having taken this long to write again. I got a new contract/work client and that has consumed most of my year, and sadly, it has taken me away from my passion project. Such is life. Gotta make money to live. But also, I really needed to take a mental health break and do some internal healing.

Anyways, ever since last year’s Euro trips, I had been craving another adventure. Decided to take a much needed vacay and ended up in San Sebastian, Spain and Porto, Portugal. I fell in love with Portugal last year because of my visit to Lisbon. During that trip, I also visited Lagos, but was unable to fit in Porto and it had been on my mind ever since. Then I was inspired by my boss to order a glass of port wine for dessert when we were out at a team dinner back in May. Having that glass of port that night was such a lovely way to end dinner. That moment really solidified my decision to choose Porto as part of my next trip. I mean, I was looking for an excuse to return to Portugal anyway and I had to have port directly from where it came from! Then the reason I decided to add San Sebastian to the trip was because I went on a date to Wolfgang Puck’s Merois in The Pendry Hotel on Sunset and had the most delicious Ube Basque Cheesecake (sidenote: Merois also has a really delicious chocolate vanilla pop on their poolside menu). That cheesecake stayed on my mind for days afterwards. I had to return to Merois three additional times to have more. So of course, that meant I had to travel to the Basque region of Spain to have the original burnt Basque cheesecake! Plus, San Sebastian is known for its concentration of Michelin star restaurants and pintxos (tapas), which is perfect for a food lover like myself.

And now here I am. Back in Los Angeles with post-vacay blues. It was really fun, but it wasn’t easy to coordinate the two cities together. I flew into Paris for a layover, hopped onto another plane to Bilbao, and then took a 1.5 hour bus ride to San Sebastian. To get to Porto, I took a 1.5 hour bus ride back to Bilbao and flew to Madrid for a layover before finally arriving in Porto. It took me awhile to commit to this trip mainly because of the layovers and buses involved. I prefer direct flights to destinations. I didn’t want to deal with the hassle. But a lot of places worth visiting are not the easiest to get to.

San Sebastian was really charming. I stayed at two different hotels. I like to experience different neighborhoods and I also like to break up the cost of accommodations by staying at a really nice place and then somewhere a bit more budget friendly. I stayed at Sansebay and Lasala Plaza Hotel. Both were great locations by the wharf, but of course, Lasala was the better stay. This luxury boutique hotel has a rooftop pool and my room had a balcony with a beautiful view of the port and the beach. Staff was so friendly and helpful. I didn’t like the narrow pillows though and I would recommend you ask to switch it out.

What I loved most about San Sebastian was going pintxos bar-hopping! Some of the restaurants were a little chaotic though, so I would recommend going on the earlier end. These light bites were so affordable. What was even more shocking is that wine is only about $3 euros! Cheaper than ordering water! My pintxos meals with wine were sometimes only $16 euros total. Pintxos were generally $2-$6 each. Larger plates were relatively more expensive like $14-$20 euros each. I really enjoyed Ganbara (an Anthony Bourdain recommendation) and Sirimiri for pintxos. I stopped by La Vina, where the original burnt Basque cheesecake was invented, and I didn’t really love it. It was a bit too creamy for me. So maybe I prefer the updated variations of it more than the original.

I also wanted to take advantage of trying a Michelin star restaurant in San Sebastian because it’s so much less expensive in Europe than in the USA. I tried my first 2-star Michelin restaurant Amelia and it was definitely an experience. People were presenting me with dishes and talking me through each one in length, serving me, and approaching me from all angles. Out of nowhere, someone would appear from behind me and in front of me at the same time to switch out utensils and plating or to ask me something. This made it very difficult to take all my photos and videos in peace lol. It was a little too much attention for me, personally. In terms of the food, I must admit, I didn’t enjoy it. I had high expectations because it was supposedly seafood focused with Italian and Japanese influences, cuisines that I love. While there was definitely a lot of fresh seafood, it wasn’t served with flavors that matched my preference. The only Italian dish was the cheese ravioli with chunks of chopped oysters in the sauce, which to me is such an odd pairing. Their lobster dish had very generous portions and I usually love lobster, but it tasted like raw poached lobster without much flavor even though it was served in a sauce. Perhaps the flavors were too delicate and subtle for my palate. I really enjoyed the champagne and dessert though, but there wasn’t a dish that really stood out to me. They kept offering me additional items verbally without showing me a menu so I had mistakenly thought these additional items were included, but they were all extra charges. So be careful. This was a pretty expensive 16-course meal. I went for lunch and couldn’t eat again until the next day. I was uncomfortably too full!

My favorite meal in San Sebastian was at Old Town Coffee House. This may sound odd, but I LOVED their breakfast toast called The Lot. It had avocado, crushed tomato, Iberian ham, black sesame, touch of lime, olive oil, with garlic-parsley sauce on sourdough bread. I’m not usually a bread person, but I enjoyed all the bread I had in San Sebastian. Their tomatoes are so flavorful. In the U.S., I feel like a lot of tomatoes are bland. Plus, the Iberian ham! So good! I didn’t know the difference between Iberian ham, prosciutto, and Serrano ham, but now I do. You know Iberian ham in the U.S. is $150/lb?!?! Insane. I loved the toast so much that I came back the next day for more and it was still just as good.

On my last night, I stopped by The Blind Pig for a cocktail. Loved the charming vibe of this speakeasy. Beautiful cocktails served with wasabi seaweed chips. I really liked these chips and I need to find them here!

All in all, I thought San Sebastian was charming and cute. Pintxos bar hopping was really fun. The bay is beautiful, but I wouldn’t come here for the beach. The beach is just surrounded by tourists, boats, and buildings. It felt like a beach in the city. San Sebastian is small and there’s not a ton to do. I stayed 3 nights and that might have been too much, but I just felt since it was annoying to get to, might as well stay longer to relax and not have to bop around. I think if you traveled to the surrounding countryside or to Rioja valley for wine tasting, it might be worth it to stay longer. While food was fairly inexpensive, I found that the nicer hotels were more expensive here because it’s a beach-type destination. In addition, I must mention that they have a really good 2-floor Zara, which is 40% cheaper than in the U.S.A. My visit also unintentionally coincided with their regatta celebrations, so old town became like a huge, dirty frat party on my last day with broken bottles and trash everywhere.

Next stop: Porto. I didn’t know what to expect with Porto because I loved Lisbon so much last year. I wasn’t sure it could top Lisbon. From all my research, it seems like there is a rivalry between Lisbon and Porto much like San Francisco and Los Angeles and I think that’s part of the reason it took awhile before I decided it was worth taking a trip to Porto. Again, I stayed at two different hotels—Hotel Moon & Sun and Portobay Flores. Portobay Flores was my splurge (and it was nicer and less expensive than my luxury hotel in San Sebastian although San Sebastian had the better view) and it was fantastic. It’s located in an old historic building (felt like an old castle) that use to belong to a wealthy Portuguese family. It’s based on Rua das Flores shopping street, not far from Ribeira and the bridge. The staff was so attentive and helpful. The hotel scent was seductive. My room had black out curtains, which allowed for the best sleep. The chocolate they left on my bedside during turndown service was delish. I ate the entire jar of complimentary sugar cookies that was on my reading table. I was welcomed with a very generous pour of my choice of welcome drink.

To my surprise, Porto was very congested. So many tourists. There was construction all over the city, which is a huge eye sore at every turn. However, Porto had the most beautiful sunset over the river with a great view from the Ponte Luis bridge and Jardim do Morro. The park was filled with people lounging, picnicking, and enjoying the live music while watching the sunset. That was probably my favorite part of Porto proper. That and probably all the pasteis de natas I ate at Manteigaria. Manteigaria has a few locations. I liked the one at Delta Coffee House by Bolhao Market. You can get some pasteis de natas with a coffee (or my preference, a matcha) with other light breakfast options. I visited the Sao Bento Station (quick walk and visit from the hotel) which also has a Time Out market, stopped by the Bolhao Market (the concierge at Portobay Flores did not recommend I eat there even though some blogs encourage it), visited the Chapel of Souls, shopped on Rua das Flores (there’s a Portuguese tshirt shop called Typographia that I liked along with some great port wine shops) and Rua Santa Catarina, and walked along the touristy Ribeira by the water. I ate at Flow (fun, lively, big), Boa Bao (Asian fusion), Alibi by Yours Porto (small and charming wine bar), Cantina 32 (lively modern boho, across from Portobay Flores), and Elemento (upscale) restaurants. All very good. The Michelin recommended Elemento was a special treat on my last night and it was so delicious. I was impressed. Every dish resonated with my palate and it made me happy. Some other places I would have loved to try are Gruto (Michelin recommended, women run), Mistu, and Say Cheesecake! & Co (for brunch). I went to the highly reviewed and popular Zenith for breakfast one day, but I didn’t really like it. I would have preferred a casual morning bite at Delta Coffee House or the busy cafe near the hotel called Floresta Cafe by the Hungry Biker.

My favorite part of my Porto trip was my day trip to Duoro Valley for wine tasting via BL Heritage tours. BL Heritage tours was a little pricier than the other group tours you would find on Viator or Get Your Guide, but I think it was worth it because it was more intimate. Instead of a big bus group of 20-40 people, it hosted small groups of about 8 people in a luxury van. At some points of the tour, we joined a couple of their other small groups, but for the majority of the day, it was just the seven of us plus the tour guide. The 1.5 hour drive was beautiful. They offered us water bottles. Our tour started with a 1 hour boat ride along the Duoro River. On the boat, we were served a port wine spritz with snacks while being given a history lesson on the origins of port wine. Then we continued onto a beautiful vista point (Casal Deloivos). Our guide gave us pasteis de natas to munch on while we took in the gorgeous views of the valley and posed for pictures. From there we visited our first vineyard Quinta da Foz, where we got a tour of their property along with an outdoor wine tasting. Next, we had lunch at Quinta do Buchiero vineyard and were served a traditional Portuguese meal along with a wine pairing. It was the most beautiful day with the best tour guide and company.

As always, check out my Instagram @loveinmybelly for food pics. Now back to reality and back to work. Where should I go next?

November Birthday in Oaxaca!

Each year, I try to plan a new adventure for my birthday. Usually international with the exception of last year, pre-vaccine. It softens the blow of getting older and helps me reframe the occasion to be a more joyous one. Once September hits, I get that back-to-school fall feeling even though I have not been in school in years. That nervousness of starting a new chapter, not knowing what to expect. That anticipation of the cold and dark winter coming. And that looming birthday, which marks the end of my personal year and forces me reaccess my life. Travel (and vacation) gives me something to look forward to and helps me get my mind off the stresses of adulthood. After such an amazing road trip to Valle de Guadalupe this past June, I decided to return to Mexico and explore Oaxaca. Many Californians like to visit Cabo, Playa del Carmen, and Puerto Vallarta, but I’m not really a beach resort type girl and I’m not a fan of the super touristy spots. I love quaint little towns, countrysides, nature, small little beach destinations, and boutique or unique accommodations.

My friend in Missouri joined me on my annual birthday adventure and we met up in Mexico City. If you’re meeting your friend at the airport in Mexico City, make sure you know your arrival terminal. We arrived at different terminals and it took us awhile to find each other. She had to take the tram from Terminal 1 to meet me in Terminal 2 and it took an hour to wait in line for a taxi. Make sure you purchase a taxi ticket and wait in line first thing. Traffic in Mexico City is pretty bad. Also, another tip. If you travel to Mexico in November, it’s super cold at night! Pack warm clothes. Except for a couple hours in the afternoon, most of the time, we were freezing! I packed mostly dresses! It felt colder than what the temperatures showed.

We only had a couple days in the city so I can’t say we had that much time to really explore the city other than visit some delicious restaurants—Cha Cha Terraza, Contramar, Quintonil, and Gin Gin—and take a boat ride at the Xochimilco canals. Cha Cha Terraza had a fun lively vibe for dinner and drinks on their upstairs terrace. Contramar had great seafood. Gin Gin is a great bar/lounge down the street from Contramar and has really good cocktails and music. Quintonil is super upscale with an option for a tasting menu. Even though Quintonil is a special culinary experience, it was a little stuffy. Indoors. No vibe. No ambiance. It was also expensive for Mexico standards. You could get an amazing meal at a more fun restaurant for half the price or less. We also stopped at Cafe Toscana next door to Buna cafe in Roma North for a snack and glass of wine mid-afternoon one day and both places were really cute.

In Mexico City, we first stayed at the Sofitel in Cuauhtémoc, which felt like downtown. Even though the area is close to Condesa and Roma North, it was very busy and not as nice. We also stayed at The Orchid House Hotel in Polanco, which I loved because it’s small and boutique. Polanco is Mexico City’s upscale neighborhood. It’s quaint, charming, and walkable. I would definitely stay here again. I had previously wanted to stay at Brick Hotel in Roma North, which is also a cute area, but the rooms were all booked. If you prefer the big hotels, but want to stay in Polanco, you could do The W or The Intercontinenal.

From Mexico City, we flew to Oaxaca. It is a short 1 hour flight. And just as I imagined, Oaxaca was amazing! So quaint and charming! Arts and crafts sold by street vendors. Markets with an array of textile, leather handbags, hats, and jewelry. Cobblestone roads. Decorative flags lined the street. Colorful buildings with beautiful exterior artwork. Old churches. Boutique hotels, delicious food, and great cocktails. Every meal we had was better than the last. I was in heaven!

One thing to note is that I made the majority of the restaurant reservations about two months in advance. Thinking that it would be warmer in Oaxaca, I chose many outdoor rooftop venues for dinner. While Oaxaca was hot during the day, it was even colder than Mexico City at night. Some of the places had heat lamps but they weren’t always working. On two different nights, a couple restaurants mentioned that they ran out of gas for the lamps, which made eating very uncomfortable. I would recommend dressing very warm or doing the rooftop spots during the day for lunch to enjoy the view.

We dined at Los Danzantes, Tierra del Sol, Casa Oaxaca, Criollo, and The Terrace on top of Hotel Los Amantes. While the food was good at all the restaurants, my favorites were Casa Oaxaca and Criollo. Criollo was where I had my birthday dinner and it was super special! The chef from Mexico City’s world renowned Pujol is part of the Criollo team. The only option at this restaurant is to enjoy their 6 course surprise tasting menu, which included a variety of Oaxacan dishes. Each plate was artfully presented and delicious! Casa Oaxaca was a pleasant surprise for lunch. They have rooftop dining. I loved the fresh table-side salsa, the sweet potato wrapped squash blossoms, the agua chile, and their corn-flan dessert. I had never had a CORN flan dessert before and I loved it! Tierra del Sol has a nice rooftop terrace view. They had really good tacos de lechon with chicharron wrapped up in what looked like a banana leaf. It was so good that we came back the next day on my birthday for lunch! The other dishes weren’t as good but we could have ordered the wrong items since they didn’t have an English menu. One thing I learned on this trip is that I love chicharron on everything! I ordered soup several times while in Oaxaca and it often included chicharron in the soup with Oaxacan string cheese, which is also very delicious. Downstairs in the same building of Tierra del Sol, there’s a little cafe that sells Atole, which is a soothing hot corn and masa based beverage that Oaxacans often drink for breakfast or at night. It comes in different flavors. Try it! It’s interesting and different. I liked it. Los Danzantes also served really good food. That’s where we dined on our first night in Oaxaca. But that Sunday night, it was really quiet. We had tortilla soup, mahi mahi and fresh garden tomato ceviche, and fresh short rib pasta.

Upstairs from Los Danzantes is their partner speakeasy bar called Selva. There’s no sign. The entrance is roped off with a man guarding the doorway. The bar is super charming with prohibition era vibes. Cocktails were pretty and carefully curated. Another bar we enjoyed was Sabina Sabe, which is a lot more casual but has great music and good cocktails. They serve food as well but we didn’t get a chance to try any. The rooftop at Hotel Los Amantes has great views for a sunset drink. They have a small bar downstairs that we liked as well. I think I ordered a mezcal cocktail with pineapple everyday in Oaxaca.

Aside from eating really well, I did a group tour to Hierve el Agua. Helpful tip: exchange your dollars for pesos. You will need it for the entrance fee, for the group buffet lunch, and also for mezcal purchases at the distillery (they have a high minimum for credit card purchases). The tour lasted all day because they include a few stops including a mezcal tasting, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Because of land disputes, we had to take the unpaved, bumpy road up the mountain to get to the pools. Once you get to the entrance/parking lot, you have the option of hiking 45 minutes down to see the petrified waterfalls or just going straight to the pools. Going down was not a huge problem but it was a little exhausting coming back up because of all the steps. It definitely gets you all heated up and ready to jump in the pools. But if you just want to take cute pictures and relax, skip the hike and just go straight to the pools and then you won’t have to worry about packing hiking clothes and sneakers along with your bathing suit and towel. The view was beautiful. Bonus: I made a few new friends on the tour because I went solo. My friend didn’t want to wake up at 7am to join the tour.

My friend and I stayed in 2 different hotels during our time in Oaxaca. The first few nights we stayed at Grana B&B, which is very quaint and quiet and the staff is so accommodating. We had a suite with 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, which was nice. Breakfast was included and is made to order and it was delicious. I don’t normally love yogurt but the yogurt was really good! Yogurt anywhere outside of the U.S. is really good, in my opinion. The location was central. We also stayed one night at Hotel Los Amantes, which has the most beautiful rooftop views. Great for sunset drinks and the food was pretty good as well. It’s made up of 2 buildings across from eachother in a central location not far from Grana B&B, with 2 rooftop restaurants, and a small bar downstairs. We stayed in the Cuishe room with 2 queen beds. While the room was nice, the hotel in general is a little loud because of the atrium and rooftop restaurants. But it was convenient to be able to just run upstairs for a cocktail or snack. Breakfast was included there as well and it was pretty good also.

The people of Oaxaca were so welcoming, nice, and helpful. The tourists we befriended were also so friendly. I loved Oaxaca and would definitely visit again! They have direct flights from Los Angeles to Oaxaca on Mexican airlines. I have to say that the best part for me was the food because as you know, I love food! They use grasshopper in a lot of dishes but it’s unrecognizeable. I’m not a huge fan of mole even though it’s a popular dish in this region. Though I did discover that I am a huge fan of chicharron, Oaxacan cheese, and mezcal cocktails. I love their fresh corn tortilla and chips and salsa. I regret that I didn’t get a chance to have churros or hot chocolate while I was in Oaxaca and Mexico City. Check out my Instagram to see all the yummy food I ate!

I can’t wait to see more of Mexico. I want to visit Guadalajara, the town of Tequila, San Miguel, Matzalan, and maybe Puerto Escondido next. This vacation was such a nice reset. I felt like I was fully able to unplug from work and the stresses of life. It has been such a long time since I’ve been on a week long trip that did not involve any sort of work. Weekend road trips don’t count because you get those days off anyways. I’m already looking forward to another vacay. It has been hard for me to focus on work after returning from such a good trip. Plus, we’re right smack in the middle of the holidays. All I want to do is curl up on the couch and watch Christmas movies. This year is flying by too fast. And my post-vacay blues are setting in. I need to plan my next adventure soon. What’s next on your travel list?