Davy Khy 10/12/26 Davy Khy 10/12/26

Take Me Back to Japan!

Happy first day of October! Well, it was the first day of October when I started writing this very long post! The year has flown by, and I never got a chance to recap my birthday trip to Japan last year. And now my next birthday is already coming up VERY soon. Even though it has been almost a year, I’m documenting everything now for future travel tips, but also because last year’s birthday trip was such a special experience and I want to remember it. I booked my flights just two weeks before leaving, and it was still such a good deal. I had been to Japan once fourteen years ago, but this trip was an entirely different experience.

One major difference between last year’s trip and the one fourteen years ago was the much more favorable exchange rate. It was almost 155 yen to 1 USD, whereas fourteen years ago, it was about 77 yen to 1 USD. What a huge difference that makes in affordability and the overall travel experience! Also, I’m a much better traveler now. Back then, I visited with two girlfriends, used an actual physical Lonely Planet book to research the trip, and went in February when it was TOO cold! Last year, I visited solo, last minute, in November. I had run out of my usual matcha, and it was sold out for a few months at the company that I usually buy from, so I thought, maybe I can just hop over to Japan to pick some up. Two weeks before my birthday, direct flights to Tokyo were less than $800 from Los Angeles. I didn’t get a chance to make many restaurant reservations at my first-choice spots, but I did make one for my birthday in Kyoto. I figured I’d just wing the rest, which is very unlike me. This is going to be a long post, so if you just want quick tips, scroll down to the end for a recap.

I broke my trip up into three legs: 3 nights in Tokyo in the Shinjuku area (lively, crowded), 3 nights in Kyoto in the Karasuma area (downtown), and 1 night in Tokyo in Ginza (upscale). After arriving in Tokyo, I booked a bus for $9 into the city from a booth near the airport exit. The bus was simpler than lugging my suitcase to a train station and switching trains, and it took me directly to my hotel neighborhood. I was able to walk from the drop-off point to The Prince Hotel. THE PRINCE HOTEL is a decent, affordable mid-range hotel in the busiest part of Shinjuku with small basic rooms. It was a good location to really experience Tokyo with its chaotic, lively, and loud atmosphere. It was near a lot of shopping as well as the famous touristy OMOIDE YOKOCHO (MEMORY LANE ALLEY). Memory Lane is a quaint and romantic alley with lanterns, small pubs, and little izakaya restaurants. Even though it looked and smelled good, I heard it was touristy to eat there. I wandered over to TATSUNOYA, which was my favorite ramen spot of the entire trip. I had to wait in line to get in, but fortunately not too long as I got there right at opening. You choose your ramen and pay at a machine before being seated. My ramen was $8 and it came with extra pickled mung bean sprouts for me to add to my bowl, which I loved.

While I am glad I got to experience Shinjuku, I probably wouldn’t stay here again. A bit too chaotic for me. There were so many food options that it was overwhelming. I often found myself paralyzed with choices, not knowing which places were good or which places were tourist traps. Fortunately, they have really nice food halls at the basement level of department stores as well as in the major train stations. Many popular restaurants that I popped into were fully booked and you couldn’t get a seat without a reservation. Definitely book in advance if you can! I also tried the famous ramen chain that you always see on TikTok with the solo booths called ICHIRAN. It was an hour-long wait, and I thought it was overrated. It was not worth the wait at all, but I think it’s open late at night or maybe even 24 hours for those who need a late night snack. I found another ramen chain I liked better called IPPUDO, and it has locations all throughout the city.

Shinjuku station is insane. It’s a maze to get around and out of. I got lost because I couldn’t find the right exit. Somehow I ended up at a food hall in the bottom of a popular department store because everything is connected. I liked that about Tokyo, being able to get lost. When do we get lost anymore? It was an adventure and it was fun because Tokyo felt so safe. To be somewhere traveling solo without the weight of crime, danger, and female-targeted violence was so liberating. I didn’t have to worry about how I held my purse, what I wore, getting mugged, being attacked, or walking around solo at night. The freedom definitely made it easier for me to enjoy myself.

I also chose not to purchase data on my phone through AT&T during this trip. This was before I learned about purchasing eSims (Airalo), a cheaper alternative to AT&T, which charges $12 a day internationally with a maximum charge of $120 per cycle. I wanted to challenge myself, be present, and not be on my phone unless I needed to be. Usually by the time I got back to the hotel and had WIFI, I was too exhausted to doom scroll on social media. I had to plan my routes in advance, take screenshots, and if I was truly lost, I’d stand outside of a cafe and hop onto their free Wi-Fi. I was only going to test this for a day or two but ended up going data free the entire week.

While staying in Shinjuku, I shopped at Uniqlo (so much cheaper than the USA and sizing is different) and Onitsuka Tiger (got my first pair of sneakers for about $120 vs $286 in the USA with tax). The great thing about shopping in Japan is that you can purchase items vat-free without having to fill out a form and submit it at the airport. You just have to present your passport at checkout and they won’t charge you tax. However, the laws for duty-free shopping are due to change next month in Japan. I stopped by beauty stores and pharmacies to stock up on beauty products and to get trinkets and candy for my niece and nephews.

I must mention that cafes in Tokyo don’t open early at all. A lot of places don’t even open till 11am. But I did find that THE MATCHA TOKYO NEWOMAN opened at 8am. So if you’re hungry early, go to 7-Eleven and try everything. I found myself going there a lot because I was too overwhelmed and tired to make a decision. I personally enjoyed the pork cutlet, ham cucumber mayo, and teriyaki chicken sandwiches. They will warm it up for you at the register, if you need to. I wanted to check out a pizza spot called PIZZERIA MARUMO, but I couldn’t get a reservation and no one responded to me when I DM-ed them about solo walk-ins. I’m sure I probably could have done it, but I didn’t feel like trekking over there if it wasn’t guaranteed. There were some sushi and izakaya spots I wanted to check out, but again, I didn’t have a reservation and was turned away often.

While staying in Shinjuku, I took advantage of getting a facial (at KOZY) and going to a hair spa (at THE HEAD SPA). I had seen the hair spa experience on social media, so I was curious. I had to make these beauty appointments in advance. The facial was fine and more affordable than in LA. The head spa and head bath were a special experience though! So serene, like the feeling you would have at a day spa. Ambient music, dim lights, hot tea, soft blanket, and scalp massage. I would recommend this for sure. It’s about $100 though. However, when they style your hair, they tend to blow dry it flat vs voluminous like they would in the USA. The head spa left me feeling very relaxed afterwards. There are several locations and they book up quickly, so make a reservation early.

I ventured into some ritzy areas for some designer vintage shopping in Omotesando, near Harajuku. I went to AMORE VINTAGE, PARADISE VINTAGE, and VINTAGE QOO. They are all pretty close to each other, with some on the same streets. I ended up buying a little birthday handbag at Amore Vintage. Japan is the best place for vintage shopping because they have very strict laws about selling fakes and this gave me peace of mind while shopping. Though I did learn about someone on TikTok who later discovered that her authentic Hermes Birkin she got from Japan was painted and touched up, so it affected the value of her bag. It really only makes a difference for resale. I didn’t know this, but it’s good info to keep in mind while shopping.

Japan is still a good place to get vintage because you don’t have to pay VAT, authenticity is pretty much guaranteed, and inventory is usually in impeccable condition. Many vintage Chanel bags have hardware plated with real gold. They don’t make them that way anymore. Preloved newer styles (that aren’t vintage) are drastically cheaper than in the USA (since they aren’t as rare), and only cost a little more than the vintage pieces, so I think that’s where you can experience the most savings. Vintage pieces are generally a lot less expensive in Japan especially with tax savings, but I wouldn’t say it’s cheap. For some brands, it’s still expensive, but you have a huge selection to choose from in close proximity, including a lot of rare pieces, and can inspect it in person. The same selection does not exist in the USA, especially in the same condition for a comparable price. So I do not regret my purchase at all. I really do give myself the best presents! 😊

After three nights in Shinjuku, I took the Shinkansen train (the fast train) to Kyoto. I purchased my train tickets the night before at the Shinjuku train station, where there’s a customer service desk. You can use a machine to purchase tickets, but I preferred a human. The ticket to Kyoto was almost $100 one way for the fast bullet train, which takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes. Because I had a large suitcase, the agent recommended I get the last seat in the train car with personal luggage space behind the seat. Later, I learned that it’s not required to reserve those specific seats to travel with a large suitcase, though it is convenient. These seats are mainly for travelers with truly oversized luggage. Most regular checked suitcases fall under their 160 cm threshold. There aren’t as many of these seats available on each train, either.

Alternatively, you can store your luggage on the overhead shelf above your seat or in the communal luggage area at the entrance of the train car. The only issue is having the strength to lift your suitcase over your head. When the communal luggage area filled up, I saw people laying their luggage flat in the entryway space so that it wouldn’t roll. Going to Kyoto, I specifically chose a time slot that had a back seat available with dedicated large luggage space behind me. For my return to Tokyo, I paid to choose my seat, but there weren’t any back seats available for my train times, and the entryway luggage cubbies were completely full. I didn’t think to lay my suitcase down flat in the entryway until I saw others do it. Fortunately, the guy I sat next to was a big American dude who was 6’7” and was able to lift my suitcase onto the shelf above our seats with no problem. Because I didn’t have data, I chatted with the stranger for the entire 2 hours and it was nice. He booked the trip last minute as well because he was starting a new job in NYC. If you’re traveling with a small suitcase, you probably don’t need to pay extra to choose a seat. You could just show up early to grab a seat in the non-reserved train cars, but the price difference may be minimal. Make sure you purchase a snack for the train ride. They have convenience stores in the train station as well as bento box food stalls.

In Kyoto, I chose to stay at GOOD NATURE HOTEL in the Karasuma district (downtown), near NISHIKI MARKET. The hotel and room were beautiful, but the staff wasn’t as friendly, and they didn’t wish me a happy birthday even though I had arrived on the actual day of my birthday. The hotel has a couple of restaurants and a market inside. There’s an amazing restaurant there called CHINESE NOODLES ROKU. It was created by a chef with two Michelin stars and has received a Michelin Bib Gourmand. It is a beautifully designed ramen bar with affordable, elevated, and delicious noodles. NISHIKI MARKET, a short walk from the hotel, had endless amounts of food stalls and shops. I regret not tasting more food there. I just couldn’t decide. I did try the strawberry sandwiches filled with cream, but I didn’t like it as much as the people on TikTok who raved about it. I thought the combination of strawberries and sweet cream with a slice of savory white bread was odd. I think it would have tasted better with a sweet dessert bread. There were great gift shops and restaurants around the market as well. The hotel is very close to the charming PONTOCHO ALLEY, where I went for sushi one night. I originally wanted to stay at NOGHA HOTEL KIYOMIZU because of the rooftop bar, but I thought it might be too far from the shops. The upside is that it is located in a more traditional and classic part of Kyoto, which could also be a great experience. I would consider trying this hotel for next time.

My first day in Kyoto was my birthday, and I was excited to celebrate there. My Uber picked me up in a van and he had a male companion in the front seat with him. In their limited English, they asked me what I was doing that night. I said I was going out to dinner at KOMATSU CUCINA ITALIANA to celebrate my birthday. Immediately, they started singing happy birthday to me and clapping their hands. They may have even played music on their phone to accompany their singing. It was the sweetest thing.

The restaurant was basically a one-room, private kitchen with only counter-bar seating. An older Japanese couple sat near me at the counter bar. The three of us were the only ones dining that night and basically had a private chef. The older lady politely asked me, “Is it okay if I talk to you?” I squealed, “of course!” It was so sweet that she wanted to make conversation. Her husband was friendly, but didn’t speak as much to me. I learned they were in Kyoto on a weekend trip from Osaka. They had dined at the spot before and really enjoyed it and came back. They had no kids of their own, didn’t cook much, and often ate at 7-Eleven. The chef didn’t really speak English, but the lady told me that it was his grandmother’s restaurant and he had inherited it and made it his own and now it’s a Michelin-rated restaurant. It was a delicious 7-course omakase. I celebrated with champagne and the couple wished me a happy birthday. I love Italian food so I thoroughly enjoyed this Italian-Japanese fusion with pasta. Dessert included an incredible tiramisu with chestnut gelato. When it was time for me to return to the hotel, the couple had asked the chef to call me a taxi and walked me out to my taxi to make sure I was okay. They waved goodbye as if I was their own grandchild or friend. It was such a beautiful birthday surprise, shared with strangers in Kyoto. I loved it.

The next day, I decided to go sightseeing. In the future, I would probably stay closer to the geisha district of Gion. It feels more old school Japan and is much closer to the sites that I wanted to see, such as the YASAKA PAGODA and KIYOMIZU-DERA TEMPLE. The temple and view were beautiful. The leaves were orange and added to the perfect autumn vibes. As you wander further into the outdoor temple area, you have to pay to enter a portion of the area that allows you to walk along the mountainside and get a better view. I didn’t do this because I was just on a mission to get as much done that day as possible. I wish I had taken a more leisurely approach though. Outside the temple, there are food stalls if you want a snack. SEIVI MATCHA is also in the area, but I didn’t get to check it out because, like most cafes, it opened later. These spots were still walkable from my hotel, but it’s about 20-30 minutes to the pagoda, plus another 15 minutes to get to the temple from the pagoda. It doesn’t sound that bad, but when you spend all your days walking, it adds up. On the same day, I took the train to FUSHIMI INARI GATES. It was beautiful and a nice little climb up a mountain. Lots of steps, but you don’t have to walk the whole thing to the top of the mountain unless you want to. I didn’t. I was exhausted from this full day of sightseeing.

I spent a leisurely last day in Kyoto tasting matcha at different spots. I found that the popular IPPODO shop and cafe were a bit pricey, especially for the cafe. They don’t offer tastings. You have to pay for it in their cafe. I really liked and preferred the matcha at FUKUJUEN. They let you taste the matcha for free before purchasing, and the service was much friendlier than IPPODO. I loved the matcha tins I bought here (about $28-$32 for a 20 gram tin). I also searched for ceramics in Kyoto like a traditional teacup and a matcha bowl, but I found that it was more expensive in Kyoto than in Tokyo (traditional teacups were $25-$40 and matcha bowls were $40-$75, whereas in Tokyo, these items were usually $10-$20). I regret that I didn’t make time to visit KAPPABASHI ceramics district in Tokyo.

On my last night in Kyoto, I treated myself to a French omakase at L’APARTE, which is located in the quaint downstairs portion of a little house. There were tables and counter seating. I enjoyed a 5-course omakase with champagne. It was so lovely. For dessert, they also served a chestnut gelato. I’m now obsessed with this chestnut flavor. After dinner, I stopped by a prohibition-style speakeasy called BEES KNEES. It was such a fun bar and I made new friends. I did have to wait over an hour though! I walked back to my hotel to wait. It was my last night in Kyoto and I wanted to experience their nightlife. I met a couple guys from Los Angeles actually and a few others from San Diego and San Francisco. Apparently, a lot of us booked the tickets to Japan last minute and got the same deal. A few purchased their tickets months in advance and spent way more than we did.

After three days in Kyoto, I returned to Tokyo and stayed in the HOTEL GRAND BACH GINZA for my last night in Japan. Ginza is one of Tokyo’s more upscale districts and is close to the TSUKIJI OUTER FISH MARKET, which is amazing! I had the most delish toro combo and Wagyu steak skewers. Go early though because it closes by 1 or 2pm and the toro counter has long lines. There was also a pretty affordable ceramic shop across from the toro counter. I purchased a ramen bowl for $6 and a smaller bowl for $3.

In the afternoon, I stopped by ATELIER MATCHA for a matcha tasting and a slice of matcha cake and it was the most delicious treat! The thing about Ginza is that it’s more for high-end shopping and there aren’t as many late-night food spots. But it’s totally worth staying in this area for the fish market. It’s much calmer and manageable, not as chaotic as Shinjuku. There were a couple IPPUDO ramen locations in Ginza that were easy to get into. I wanted to try GINZA HACHIGO, but I didn’t have a reservation. I spent my last night in Tokyo grabbing an early dinner at a restaurant the hotel recommended with the only availability. Then I got drinks at TOKYO CONFIDENTIAL. I stopped by early, so I was able to get in for a cocktail without a reservation. Generally, though, you need one, especially for a group. Next time, I’d probably stay in Ginza again or in any of the neighboring areas outside Ginza.

To get to the airport at the end of my trip, I decided to Uber (about $50). There were no airport shuttle buses available in Ginza like there had been in Shinjuku. I could have taken the train. It didn’t seem that complicated, only one transfer, but I had a large suitcase and several extra bags at that point. I was too exhausted. And even though the train ride may have sounded simple, some of the train stations are a maze to get through to find the right connection and I didn’t have the time or energy to risk getting lost carrying around multiple bags.

During my entire trip, I thought of the LOST IN TRANSLATION movie, and more recently, OH LUCY! (fantastic movie featuring Josh Hartnett as a supporting character). When I visited Japan the first time fourteen years ago, I had eaten at the izakaya featured in the movie Kill Bill. It was big and lively! But we sat upstairs in a quiet room eating sushi instead of downstairs eating skewers with the crowds. I would have preferred downstairs, but I didn’t know when I made the reservation. We had also visited the fancy hotel bar featured in Lost in Translation. I don’t remember much about it except that it was dark and moody, and they had a really nice, fancy toilet 😂 Anyway, see below for a shorter version of my travel tips.

TLDR - Japan Travel Tips & Things I learned:

Hotels:

General Info:

Japanese toilets are amazing! Heated seats, bidet functions, and even ambient sounds. I miss them!
Hotels don't always provide body lotion, so bring your own.
I didn’t find the concierge service to be that helpful with restaurant recommendations, train tickets, or with luggage. I don’t think they offered to help with luggage once. I’m not sure if this is a cultural thing there though.

Tokyo:

The Prince Hotel - It was a good budget hotel with friendly staff and service, but I’m not sure I would stay here again. Even though I enjoyed the experience, I don’t think I’d want to stay in the chaos of Shinjuku again.
HOTEL GRAND BACH GINZA - I’d definitely stay here again. Prices were reasonable, and it was a really nice hotel. Ginza is an upscale neighborhood, so there aren’t as many local food spots open late at night, but the trade-off is that it’s not as chaotic. It’s also within walking distance of the TSUKIJI OUTER FISH MARKET, which is very convenient. If I stayed there again, I’d probably walk to the fish market every day for lunch. Plus, in addition to their upscale shops and vintage shops, they have a lot of affordable kid-friendly gift shops like DON QUIJOTE and Pokémon Store and Cafe.
TOKYO GINZA EDITION HOTEL - I would love to stay here next time. But I would also be open to staying in the neighboring areas close to Ginza as well.

Kyoto:

GOOD NATURE HOTEL - I would definitely recommend staying here. It’s within walking distance to NISHIKI MARKET and PONTOCHO ALLEY.
Next time, I’d like to try NOGHA HOTEL KIYOMIZU in a more traditional Japanese neighborhood or stay at a hotel near Gion to be closer to the sights and experience more of the old-school Japan vibes.

Transportation & Getting Around:

After arriving in Tokyo, I booked a bus for $9 into the city from a booth near the airport exit. I preferred this over lugging my suitcase through the city to a train station and switching trains. It took me directly to my hotel neighborhood in Shinjuku. Conveniently, they have options to purchase separate buses for different neighborhoods in Tokyo.
Train stations can be overwhelming and confusing. If the ticket machines intimidate you, look for a ticket office within the station and ask an agent about purchasing a SUICA train card.
SUICA cards are easy to use and to reload with money at machines. You can also use them to pay for food at places like 7-Eleven.
It was pretty easy traveling via train locally. The trains are so clean and quiet. People keep to themselves. They also wait in line to get in. It’s very organized, with no pushing or shoving.
If possible, use the Yamanote line for convenient routes around Tokyo.
You can purchase Shinkansen tickets last minute. This fast bullet train takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes to get from Tokyo to Kyoto and costs almost $100 one way, including a reserved seat. You can reserve seats in the limited oversized-bag sections at the back of a train car, which have designated luggage space behind the seats, but reserving those specific seats is not required. You most likely don’t need the oversized-bag seats unless your bag is truly oversized. Most regular checked suitcases fall under their 160 cm threshold. There also aren’t as many of those seats available on each train. You can use the communal luggage area upon entrance. I saw people lay their luggage sideways in the entryway so that it wouldn’t roll. Large suitcases also fit on the shelves above the seats, but it can be difficult getting it up there unless you have help. I’ve heard they have affordable luggage forwarding services that ship your luggage to your destination without having to worry about carrying it with you. If you’re traveling with a small suitcase, you probably don’t need to pay extra to choose a seat, though the price difference may be minimal. You could just show up early to grab a seat in the non-reserved train cars. You may want to purchase a bento box or snack in the station to eat on the train.
When arriving in Kyoto and grabbing a taxi, DO NOT stand in the foreign friendly taxi line. It might look shorter, but very few taxis stop in that line. It will take much longer to get a taxi. Wait in the longer regular taxi line. Even though the line may be long, it will move very quickly. I made the mistake of standing in the foreign friendly line (even when people in front of me gave up and left) and I waited more than 30 minutes with only three or four people in front of me because so few taxis were stopping in that line.
I mainly got around using the city trains and walking. I used taxis/Ubers mainly for the 2 nice restaurants in Kyoto that were further away from the hotel at night, to get to the hotel from the train station after arriving in Kyoto, to get to the hotel from the Tokyo train station after returning from Kyoto (vs figuring out the city train connections with my large luggage, even though it wasn’t too far), and to get to the airport from Ginza at the end of my trip.
Upon arrival in Tokyo, it was easy to purchase a bus ticket at the airport to get directly to Shinjuku, especially since my hotel was in a central location. But at the end of my trip, I was staying in Ginza, and there was no option to catch an airport bus from there. I could have taken the train to the airport, which I think would require me to switch trains once, but I was just too exhausted by the end of the trip, and I was carrying around extra bags at that point. So I decided to Uber to the airport instead.

Phone Data & Staying Connected:

Consider an eSIM like Airalo as an alternative to your carrier's international roaming plan.
If you don't have international data, you can sometimes connect to free Wi-Fi outside cafes. I did this when I got lost.
If you go without data, plan your routes in advance and take screenshots of directions before leaving your hotel.

Food, Restaurants, & Bars:

General Info:

Reservations are highly recommended for dinner because most restaurants are small with little space. Even local spots that were larger turned me away.
Major train stations are connected to food halls or have food stalls inside them. The basements of department stores have food markets with a variety of options, even little grocery stores. Everything is neatly packaged and prepared. Great for takeout.
Get breakfast at 7-Eleven because most places don’t open till 10am or 11am. They will microwave any hot foods for you too. Try all their sandwiches, esp. the pork cutlet, ham and cucumber, egg sandwich, and the chicken teriyaki.
Try not to get overwhelmed by all the options. If you don’t have reservations, choose a food stall or local place and give it a try. Otherwise, you can end up waiting too long, getting hangry, and running out of energy to decide. Take advantage of getting snacks and drinks at 7-Eleven.
Ramen and miso soup were served extra hot, just the way I like it. Miso soups tasted even better here!

Tokyo:

TSUKIJI OUTER FISH MARKET - Definitely get A5 Wagyu melt-in-your-mouth skewers (3 pieces on a skewer for about $22) and a 6-piece toro belly nigiri combo (full fatty, med fatty, and reg fatty tuna for about $25). I waited in line for almost 30 minutes to get the toro belly nigiri combo and it was worth it! The tamago on a stick and snow crabs looked good too! The market closes by 2pm, so plan accordingly. If you’re staying close by in Ginza, you might want to go more than once.
RAMEN - Don’t bother going to the ICHIRAN ramen chain, known for their solo booths and curtains (though people will still go in groups and talk between booths). You might have to wait 45 minutes to over an hour for a table during meal times. Go to IPPUDO ramen chain instead or TATSUNOYA. Ramen is about $8-$10 depending on what you select and add to your bowl. You don’t need a reservation for these casual ramen spots.
FANCIER RAMEN - I didn’t get to try this fancier ramen spot because it requires reservations, but I wanted to share it with you. GINZA HACHIGO RAMEN in Ginza has a Michelin Bib Gourmand and is known for their consommé broth, blending Japanese style ramen with French fine-dining techniques. The tiny restaurant offers an elevated intimate setting. Another ramen spot on my list known for their truffle-infused shoyu ramen is SOBA HOUSE. It’s located in Shinjuku and also has a Michelin Bib Gourmand. It’s casual and modern, and it does not take reservations. Instead, you have to show up early to grab a lunch ticket that allows you to scan the QR code to register your phone rather than waiting in a physical line. You will then be notified when your seat is ready.
FANCY DINNER - I didn’t get a chance to have a fancy dinner in Tokyo because, as I mentioned, I booked my trip last minute. But here are some options on my list: BOTTEGA in Shibuya and PRIMO PASSO in Ginza. Both restaurants are Italian-Japanese and have 1 Michelin star. Omakases are between $110-$150.
SUSHI - Next time, I would reserve a spot to enjoy a sushi omakase. I didn’t get to try all the food I wanted and I spent a lot of time eating ramen. I think I only had sushi twice during my entire trip, once at a random average place in Kyoto and then just the toro stall at the fish market. Some sushi places I had considered: SUSHIDOKORO KIRAKU (1 Michelin star, a little pricier, in Kyodo), TAKUMI TATSUHIRO (1 Michelin star, pricier, in Shinjuku), SUSHIDOKORO SHIGERU (Michelin Bib Gourmand, in Shinjuku, does not accept online reservations or have a website, TableEx helps you coordinate the reservation), SUSHIYA HAJIME (Michelin-rated, pricier, in Shinjuku), SUSHI BAR NIGIRITE (casual, walk-in available, in Shinjuku), SUSHI KOURIN (former Michelin Bib Gourmand, casual, in Shibuya, doesn’t have an official website but you can book a reservation via TableCheck), and GINZA TOYODA (Michelin-rated, pricier, in Ginza).
IZAKAYAS - Izakayas are fun because of the skewers and pub vibe, but make a reservation! I stumbled upon one and got in by luck, but I was turned away from my first few choices. These were a few places on my list: YOROZUYA OKAGESAN, KYOMACHI KOISHIGURE, and WARAYAKI-YA Shinjuku (West Exit) all in Shinjuku.
OTHER - I would have loved to try TOGASHIYA ONIGIRI and PIZZERIA MARUMO (reservation needed) in Shibuya.

Kyoto:

For a special experience, I recommend CHINESE NOODLES ROKU (Michelin Bib Gourmand, supervised by a two-Michelin-starred chef), a French omakase called L’APARTE, and Italian omakase at KOMATSU CUCINA ITALIANA. Next time, I want to try CENCI, which is Italian. Both omakases I had featured chestnut gelato, and it was delicious! To see all of the photos of my French and Italian omakases, go to my Love in My Belly Instagram highlight reel or grid.
NISHIKI MARKET has a variety of options at their food stalls. The area surrounding the market also has some quaint little restaurants. The department stores have good food halls as well.

Bars:

I enjoyed TOKYO CONFIDENTIAL in Tokyo and BEES KNEES in Kyoto. I would have loved to check out BAR ROCKING CHAIR in Kyoto as well.

Matcha & Ceramics:

Tokyo:

In the TSUKIJI OUTER FISH MARKET, there is a ceramic stall with very affordable bowls, chopsticks, and teacups. I got a ramen bowl for $6 and a smaller bowl for $3. Tokyo felt cheaper for matcha and ceramics than Kyoto. I didn’t get a chance to check out the ceramic district called KAPPABASHI, but it’s on my list for next time!
In Shinjuku, I had matcha at THE MATCHA TOKYO NEWOMAN. It’s a chain, so there are locations throughout Tokyo. It was the only matcha place close to me that opened early at 8am.
I ordered a matcha tasting, matcha latte, and a delicious matcha cake at ATELIER MATCHA in Ginza. I definitely recommend stopping here for a treat!

Kyoto:

Ippodo Teahouse is overpriced in my opinion. They won’t let you taste. You have to order a full cup of matcha in their cafe, but it’s the same cost as a tin of matcha. The staff wasn’t friendly here. Go to the FUKUJUEN shop instead. Directly above the shop is a yummy matcha cafe that I recommend. And above that, there is a fancy and expensive, but beautiful ceramic shop. Diagonally across the street from this building is a more affordable ceramic gift shop.
Also, try SEIVI Matcha cafe in Gion. I didn’t get a chance to, but it was on my list and looked really good! I also stopped by the LE LABO perfumery store. They have a pretty matcha cafe in the back that you don’t have to wait in line for. The line is mainly for people who want to shop at the perfumery store.

Shopping & Souvenirs:

Bring your passport when shopping if you plan to make tax-free purchases. Eligibility and minimum purchase requirements depend on the applicable rules and store. However, I believe Japan’s tax-free shopping system is changing in November 2026, so check the latest requirements before your trip.
Japan is a great place for vintage designer shopping. In Tokyo, I visited AMORE VINTAGE, PARADISE VINTAGE, and VINTAGE QOO in Omotesando near Harajuku. I ended up buying a birthday present for myself at Amore Vintage. I stopped by a couple vintage boutiques in Ginza as well, just to browse the selection. They had some good pieces there, but I’m not sure if there is price difference between shopping at the neighborhoods.
Japan has strict rules against counterfeit goods, but you should always inspect the condition of pre-owned designer items and review any authenticity documentation. However, keep in mind that authenticity doesn't necessarily guarantee that a bag hasn't been repaired, recolored, or otherwise altered.
Uniqlo and Onitsuka Tiger were much cheaper for me in Japan than in the USA. A $35 Uniqlo shirt would probably only cost $16 in Japan. My sneakers were $120 vs $285 with tax in the U.S.
Visit pharmacies, 7-Eleven, and Loft and Hands for beauty products, gifts, candy, snacks, and little souvenirs.
For kids' gifts, I visited Kiddyland, Don Quijote, and Toy Park all in Tokyo. You can also find dedicated Harry Potter, Sanrio, and Pokémon stores.
Do not wait until the airport to shop for gifts because the lines in the gift shops are madness.
Buy fancy snacks to bring home, like cookies, biscuits, or custom Japanese sweets. I bought the most delicious matcha biscuit with white chocolate at the airport souvenir shop, as I was trying to get rid of my leftover yen. It looked something like this. I wish I got more boxes!
AMEX is widely accepted. I was surprised by this because that has not been the case when I’ve traveled to other countries.

Sights & Activities:

Tokyo:

Fourteen years ago, the famous tuna auction took place at the Tsukiji Inner Market. Back then, you were able to walk through the live auction floor at 5:30am. It was the most unique experience. The tuna fish were gigantic. They looked like whales! I had no idea tuna came in such big sizes. The men stood on small platforms yelling out a rhythmic auction chant that sounded like they were rapping because they would yell it with their whole body. Afterward, we walked nearby to line up, in the freezing cold, outside sushi bars, waiting for them to open for a sushi breakfast at 6:30am! I remember our body heat and breath fogging up the windows. I had never had sushi for breakfast before. We each got a combo set of nigiri and sashimi served with hot green tea. The meal was so fresh and simple. This has got to be one of my top 5 food experiences ever. In 2018, the tuna auction moved to TOYOSU FISH MARKET, not too far away. You can view the auction from an upper observation walkway for free. To view it from a lower observation deck, you’d have to enter the monthly lottery in advance, which only accepts 100 people per day. I highly recommend this experience, but it does require waking up super early.
Stop by the famous touristy OMOIDE YOKOCHO (MEMORY LANE ALLEY). Memory Lane is a quaint and romantic alley with lanterns, small pubs, and little izakaya restaurants.
I really enjoyed the head spa experience at THE HEAD SPA. It was such a relaxing experience. Loved the ambient music, dim lighting, complimentary tea, hair wash, head massage, and blow dry. There are several locations and they book up quickly. Reserve in advance.
Get a facial somewhere. I went to KOZY, but the experience didn’t particularly stand out to me. It was located not far from the PIZZERIA MARUMO that I mentioned above though.
I wish I had visited the TEAMLABS PLANET TOKYO museum. Next time!
Designate time to shop for gifts, souvenirs, ceramics, beauty products, vintage handbags, clothes, toys, sneakers, tea, matcha, and snacks. See above for shopping tips.

Kyoto:

Definitely visit YASAKA PAGODA, KIYOMIZU-DERA TEMPLE, and the FUSHIMI INARI GATES (the orange gates).
Additional options that I didn’t get a chance to see: KINKAKU-JI (THE GOLDEN PAVILION TEMPLE), ARASHIYAMA BAMBOO FOREST, and OTAGI NENBUTSU-JI temple, nestled in the hillside near the bamboo forest and famous for its 1,200 stone laughing Buddha disciples.
Fourteen years ago, when I visited Japan for the first time, I took a short train ride outside of Kyoto to visit a hot spring. It was the most special experience. The town was quiet and looked traditional. The venue (which I don’t even remember the name of) had an outside hot spring. You go in naked. It was February and it snowed all around us. Afterward, they served us a traditional Japanese lunch while we were still in our robes. It was a beautiful and romantic experience. I definitely recommend making an appointment at a hot spring & spa outside of Kyoto if you can!
In addition to all the food stalls, NISHIKI MARKET is a fun place to visit. It has a variety of little gift shops, including places where you can personalize chopsticks.
Walk through the charming PONTOCHO ALLEY. It’s lined with lanterns, little shops, and restaurants.
Meander along the scenic and romantic canals of Kyoto.
Explore the Gion district. I wish I spent more time wandering the traditional streets here instead of just rushing through to see the pagoda.

Cultural Etiquette & Everyday Life:

Don't jaywalk, even when there are no cars around. It's frowned upon, and I still felt guilty when I did it!
Do not eat or drink while walking. It’s disrespectful. They even have warning signs for this at some landmarks. If you want to snack or hydrate, stop and stand off to the side of the sidewalk or in an alley, and eat or drink then. And definitely never eat or drink on a city train! Eating on the bullet train is okay though because it’s a longer distance and you’re seated.
Do not talk loudly on the city trains. Wait in an orderly line to board.
Shinjuku train station is a maze FYI. I got lost trying to get out of the train station 😂
Japan is incredibly clean, but public trash cans can be hard to find. Carry a tote to hold your water, snacks, and any trash until you find a bin.

Take off your shoes in hotel rooms and leave them by the door, as recommended. Use the slippers provided.
When trying on clothes, some stores ask you to remove your shoes and wear a face covering to protect the garments from makeup.
Stand on the left side of escalators in many parts of Tokyo. They also drive on the left side.
Some restaurants provide baskets for you to place your purse.
As a woman, I felt very safe traveling around Japan solo. I didn’t feel like I had to worry about being pickpocketed, mugged, attacked, or catcalled. I didn’t have to worry about my clothes being perceived as too revealing or wearing nice jewelry or handbags that could be stolen. I believe the feeling of safety stems from Japan’s strict laws against crime and a culture where shame and social consequences play a significant role in discouraging bad behavior.

Anyway, WOW. I can’t believe I had so much to say about Japan! This turned into quite a list. Just writing this post makes me feel nostalgic and want to go back already! I hope you enjoyed hearing about my adventure and find my tips helpful when you visit Japan!

Davy Khy 9/29/24 Davy Khy 9/29/24

Food Tour: San Sebastian & Porto

I know it has been almost a year since I’ve written. It has been weighing heavily on me and I had been mentally beating myself up for having taken this long to write again. I got a new contract/work client and that has consumed most of my year, and sadly, it has taken me away from my passion project. Such is life. Gotta make money to live. But also, I really needed to take a mental health break and do some internal healing.

Anyways, ever since last year’s Euro trips, I had been craving another adventure. Decided to take a much needed vacay and ended up in San Sebastian, Spain and Porto, Portugal. I fell in love with Portugal last year because of my visit to Lisbon. During that trip, I also visited Lagos, but was unable to fit in Porto and it had been on my mind ever since. Then I was inspired by my boss to order a glass of port wine for dessert when we were out at a team dinner back in May. Having that glass of port that night was such a lovely way to end dinner. That moment really solidified my decision to choose Porto as part of my next trip. I mean, I was looking for an excuse to return to Portugal anyway and I had to have port directly from where it came from! Then the reason I decided to add San Sebastian to the trip was because I went on a date to Wolfgang Puck’s Merois in The Pendry Hotel on Sunset and had the most delicious Ube Basque Cheesecake (sidenote: Merois also has a really delicious chocolate vanilla pop on their poolside menu). That cheesecake stayed on my mind for days afterwards. I had to return to Merois three additional times to have more. So of course, that meant I had to travel to the Basque region of Spain to have the original burnt Basque cheesecake! Plus, San Sebastian is known for its concentration of Michelin star restaurants and pintxos (tapas), which is perfect for a food lover like myself.

And now here I am. Back in Los Angeles with post-vacay blues. It was really fun, but it wasn’t easy to coordinate the two cities together. I flew into Paris for a layover, hopped onto another plane to Bilbao, and then took a 1.5 hour bus ride to San Sebastian. To get to Porto, I took a 1.5 hour bus ride back to Bilbao and flew to Madrid for a layover before finally arriving in Porto. It took me awhile to commit to this trip mainly because of the layovers and buses involved. I prefer direct flights to destinations. I didn’t want to deal with the hassle. But a lot of places worth visiting are not the easiest to get to.

San Sebastian was really charming. I stayed at two different hotels. I like to experience different neighborhoods and I also like to break up the cost of accommodations by staying at a really nice place and then somewhere a bit more budget friendly. I stayed at Sansebay and Lasala Plaza Hotel. Both were great locations by the wharf, but of course, Lasala was the better stay. This luxury boutique hotel has a rooftop pool and my room had a balcony with a beautiful view of the port and the beach. Staff was so friendly and helpful. I didn’t like the narrow pillows though and I would recommend you ask to switch it out.

What I loved most about San Sebastian was going pintxos bar-hopping! Some of the restaurants were a little chaotic though, so I would recommend going on the earlier end. These light bites were so affordable. What was even more shocking is that wine is only about $3 euros! Cheaper than ordering water! My pintxos meals with wine were sometimes only $16 euros total. Pintxos were generally $2-$6 each. Larger plates were relatively more expensive like $14-$20 euros each. I really enjoyed Ganbara (an Anthony Bourdain recommendation) and Sirimiri for pintxos. I stopped by La Vina, where the original burnt Basque cheesecake was invented, and I didn’t really love it. It was a bit too creamy for me. So maybe I prefer the updated variations of it more than the original.

I also wanted to take advantage of trying a Michelin star restaurant in San Sebastian because it’s so much less expensive in Europe than in the USA. I tried my first 2-star Michelin restaurant Amelia and it was definitely an experience. People were presenting me with dishes and talking me through each one in length, serving me, and approaching me from all angles. Out of nowhere, someone would appear from behind me and in front of me at the same time to switch out utensils and plating or to ask me something. This made it very difficult to take all my photos and videos in peace lol. It was a little too much attention for me, personally. In terms of the food, I must admit, I didn’t enjoy it. I had high expectations because it was supposedly seafood focused with Italian and Japanese influences, cuisines that I love. While there was definitely a lot of fresh seafood, it wasn’t served with flavors that matched my preference. The only Italian dish was the cheese ravioli with chunks of chopped oysters in the sauce, which to me is such an odd pairing. Their lobster dish had very generous portions and I usually love lobster, but it tasted like raw poached lobster without much flavor even though it was served in a sauce. Perhaps the flavors were too delicate and subtle for my palate. I really enjoyed the champagne and dessert though, but there wasn’t a dish that really stood out to me. They kept offering me additional items verbally without showing me a menu so I had mistakenly thought these additional items were included, but they were all extra charges. So be careful. This was a pretty expensive 16-course meal. I went for lunch and couldn’t eat again until the next day. I was uncomfortably too full!

My favorite meal in San Sebastian was at Old Town Coffee House. This may sound odd, but I LOVED their breakfast toast called The Lot. It had avocado, crushed tomato, Iberian ham, black sesame, touch of lime, olive oil, with garlic-parsley sauce on sourdough bread. I’m not usually a bread person, but I enjoyed all the bread I had in San Sebastian. Their tomatoes are so flavorful. In the U.S., I feel like a lot of tomatoes are bland. Plus, the Iberian ham! So good! I didn’t know the difference between Iberian ham, prosciutto, and Serrano ham, but now I do. You know Iberian ham in the U.S. is $150/lb?!?! Insane. I loved the toast so much that I came back the next day for more and it was still just as good.

On my last night, I stopped by The Blind Pig for a cocktail. Loved the charming vibe of this speakeasy. Beautiful cocktails served with wasabi seaweed chips. I really liked these chips and I need to find them here!

All in all, I thought San Sebastian was charming and cute. Pintxos bar hopping was really fun. The bay is beautiful, but I wouldn’t come here for the beach. The beach is just surrounded by tourists, boats, and buildings. It felt like a beach in the city. San Sebastian is small and there’s not a ton to do. I stayed 3 nights and that might have been too much, but I just felt since it was annoying to get to, might as well stay longer to relax and not have to bop around. I think if you traveled to the surrounding countryside or to Rioja valley for wine tasting, it might be worth it to stay longer. While food was fairly inexpensive, I found that the nicer hotels were more expensive here because it’s a beach-type destination. In addition, I must mention that they have a really good 2-floor Zara, which is 40% cheaper than in the U.S.A. My visit also unintentionally coincided with their regatta celebrations, so old town became like a huge, dirty frat party on my last day with broken bottles and trash everywhere.

Next stop: Porto. I didn’t know what to expect with Porto because I loved Lisbon so much last year. I wasn’t sure it could top Lisbon. From all my research, it seems like there is a rivalry between Lisbon and Porto much like San Francisco and Los Angeles and I think that’s part of the reason it took awhile before I decided it was worth taking a trip to Porto. Again, I stayed at two different hotels—Hotel Moon & Sun and Portobay Flores. Portobay Flores was my splurge (and it was nicer and less expensive than my luxury hotel in San Sebastian although San Sebastian had the better view) and it was fantastic. It’s located in an old historic building (felt like an old castle) that use to belong to a wealthy Portuguese family. It’s based on Rua das Flores shopping street, not far from Ribeira and the bridge. The staff was so attentive and helpful. The hotel scent was seductive. My room had black out curtains, which allowed for the best sleep. The chocolate they left on my bedside during turndown service was delish. I ate the entire jar of complimentary sugar cookies that was on my reading table. I was welcomed with a very generous pour of my choice of welcome drink.

To my surprise, Porto was very congested. So many tourists. There was construction all over the city, which is a huge eye sore at every turn. However, Porto had the most beautiful sunset over the river with a great view from the Ponte Luis bridge and Jardim do Morro. The park was filled with people lounging, picnicking, and enjoying the live music while watching the sunset. That was probably my favorite part of Porto proper. That and probably all the pasteis de natas I ate at Manteigaria. Manteigaria has a few locations. I liked the one at Delta Coffee House by Bolhao Market. You can get some pasteis de natas with a coffee (or my preference, a matcha) with other light breakfast options. I visited the Sao Bento Station (quick walk and visit from the hotel) which also has a Time Out market, stopped by the Bolhao Market (the concierge at Portobay Flores did not recommend I eat there even though some blogs encourage it), visited the Chapel of Souls, shopped on Rua das Flores (there’s a Portuguese tshirt shop called Typographia that I liked along with some great port wine shops) and Rua Santa Catarina, and walked along the touristy Ribeira by the water. I ate at Flow (fun, lively, big), Boa Bao (Asian fusion), Alibi by Yours Porto (small and charming wine bar), Cantina 32 (lively modern boho, across from Portobay Flores), and Elemento (upscale) restaurants. All very good. The Michelin recommended Elemento was a special treat on my last night and it was so delicious. I was impressed. Every dish resonated with my palate and it made me happy. Some other places I would have loved to try are Gruto (Michelin recommended, women run), Mistu, and Say Cheesecake! & Co (for brunch). I went to the highly reviewed and popular Zenith for breakfast one day, but I didn’t really like it. I would have preferred a casual morning bite at Delta Coffee House or the busy cafe near the hotel called Floresta Cafe by the Hungry Biker.

My favorite part of my Porto trip was my day trip to Duoro Valley for wine tasting via BL Heritage tours. BL Heritage tours was a little pricier than the other group tours you would find on Viator or Get Your Guide, but I think it was worth it because it was more intimate. Instead of a big bus group of 20-40 people, it hosted small groups of about 8 people in a luxury van. At some points of the tour, we joined a couple of their other small groups, but for the majority of the day, it was just the seven of us plus the tour guide. The 1.5 hour drive was beautiful. They offered us water bottles. Our tour started with a 1 hour boat ride along the Duoro River. On the boat, we were served a port wine spritz with snacks while being given a history lesson on the origins of port wine. Then we continued onto a beautiful vista point (Casal Deloivos). Our guide gave us pasteis de natas to munch on while we took in the gorgeous views of the valley and posed for pictures. From there we visited our first vineyard Quinta da Foz, where we got a tour of their property along with an outdoor wine tasting. Next, we had lunch at Quinta do Buchiero vineyard and were served a traditional Portuguese meal along with a wine pairing. It was the most beautiful day with the best tour guide and company.

As always, check out my Instagram @loveinmybelly for food pics. Now back to reality and back to work. Where should I go next?

Davy Khy 5/3/23 Davy Khy 5/3/23

Spring Break: Italy & Portugal

It has been awhile since I have written. Life can be so confusing. I think I’m going through a mid-life crisis. Is that possible? Something had been feeling off and it had been difficult to pinpoint. But I knew, I needed to change my environment, even if temporarily, to change my energy, flow, and focus. I took advantage of an opportunity to escape to Europe because my neighbor was going to be spending an extended amount of time in Italy. I had been to Italy so many times before, but it had been a decade since. Plus, I love Italian food, pasta particularly. At the very last minute, I booked a trip because nothing was really happening for me in LA and I had the time. I had been stressed. I had been overwhelmed. I had been stuck. So why not? And since I love exploring new countries, why not add in Portugal too?

Florence (4 nights): My first stop was Florence, where I joined my neighbor and her sister. This brought back so many memories. I had first visited Florence when I was 19 years old, with two friends, after we completed our summer abroad in the countryside of France. I was so young! A baby! This was pre-technology and pre-smart phones. I stayed in hostels and used guidebooks. Back then, hostels were not as nice, modern, or fun as they are today. I roughed it. I guess my curiosity and desire to explore was always a part of me and it felt good to get back in touch with that part of me again. Travel is a privilege but adventure is within you. Since my neighbor was staying in Italy for the month, she got an Airbnb a bit outside of the city. This was a little annoying because we had to walk to get to a tram to get into the city, and then walk a bunch more. If you can, stay in the city center. It will make your life so much easier. During this trip, we dined at some really lovely restaurants such as La Menagere (a little fancy and romantic) and La Giostra (charming). We did not have reservations at either. Since Europeans typically eat late, we were able to get tables without reservations because we arrived early. However, I think we got lucky. You should definitely make reservations if you want to eat at the best spots. Some of the random spots we chose were not as good, but we were sometimes desperate because we didn’t have reservations and didn’t want to wait hours. We went wine tasting in Tuscany. Walked all over the city, averaging at least 15,000 steps a day, which is anywhere between 5-8 miles. We indulged in gelato. Since I had been to Florence before, I didn’t feel obligated to wait in line to visit all of the museums. I don’t even think I have the patience now to do it. I was still very exhausted from all the walking though. We saw the Duomo, walked across Ponte Vecchio, shopped at the Central Market (bought truffle slices), climbed up to Piazzale Michelangelo for a view of the city, and explored many of the small, cobblestone streets. There were a few restaurants/bars that I wish we had time to try, such as Floreal (cool looking bar), lo Osteria Personale (small, quaint, wine-bar vibe, Michelin-rated), Gurdulu (casual, hip), and Zeb (casual, diner style, Michelin rated) in the Santo Spirito neighborhood. But I guess I’ll have to save that for next time!

Rome (3 nights): Rome was my second stop and also the first part of my solo adventure. We took the train to Rome together from Florence but then separated at the end of the day. They proceeded onto Naples and Pompeii and I decided to stay in Rome. I had not really traveled abroad solo since pre-pandemic. I was a little nervous about this when I booked the trip but once I got into my groove, I felt in my element. I stayed near the Trevi fountain at Relais 95 Trevi for one night but I would not do that again. The hotel was fine with a rooftop terrace and friendly staff. The room was small though and the area was overly crowded with tourists. The second two nights, I stayed in Trastavere, which I preferred. It’s close enough but away from the touristy sites. I stayed at Palazzo Baj, which is more like a guest house. The room was spacious and clean, but the bed was memory foam and super uncomfortable. Memory foam beds and pillows are something your body needs to get used to. It’s not something that should be offered for a random stay at a hotel. I’m surprised that they only provided memory foams beds because it’s not for everyone. I think a standard mattress would be more universally pleasing. The staff was super friendly and helpful but they were rarely to be seen on the premises. If you email the hotel in advance, it takes days to get a response. You have to make an appointment to check in. When you get your hotel confirmation, you can’t respond back to the email from which it comes from. You have to respond to the email listed at the bottom of the confirmation email. I made that mistake and waited days with no response. But even when you email the correct address, it still takes days and follow up. They didn’t provide complimentary water in the room but when I had written a review about this on Tripadvisor, the owner said that they provided complimentary water. I didn’t see it. I only saw small water bottles in the mini bar which had a listed fee. They had complimentary water in a large carafe in the lounge but they didn’t refill the bottle regularly. Since there was no staff around to inform, I couldn’t refill my water bottle from the water in the lounge and I wasn’t sure if the tap water from the faucet was safe. Sorry, don’t mean to go off about water but with all the walking, I was exhausted and dehydrated and sometimes did not get the chance to search for a market to pick up a bottle. The guesthouse was also a little isolated from the main area of Trastavere, about a 12 minute walk. There aren’t as many mid-range hotel options in Trastavere so you could also stay in Piazza Navona or Campe de Fiore or Vatican if you want something quiet. Airbnb is an option too. But I would stay away from Trevi, Pantheon, and the Colosseum.

The last time I had been to Rome was with my college boyfriend when I was 22 years old. Even a second time around, the colosseum was still mesmerizing. I took a fun cooking class and learned how to make tiramisu and pasta from scratch without a machine. I ate so much pasta and dessert. I tried Maritozza con La Panna for the first time because it’s in the windows of every pastry shop. It’s a sweet bun filled with milk cream. I enjoyed it but it was a little too much cream and bread for me. But definitely worth trying or sharing with someone! I also had Sfogliatelle for the first time. This I could handle because they have mini versions. Though I could probably eat the entire full sized version because that’s how much I loved it! But I wouldn’t say that they are made equally at every café. I had quite a few of these and only one that I really loved. Usually, they are chocolate, custard, pistachio, or jam filled. I found one that was filled with Chantilly cream and that was heaven! I loved the crispiness of this pastry. I had the best charcuterie board at Pane E Salami (tavern style) near the Trevi Fountain. They also offer sandwiches, vegetarian boards, and bruschetta. The cured meats and tomatoes are just so much tastier in Italy! I dined at Coromandel (cozy breakfast spot near past Piazza Navona) and Tonnarello (very popular, casual family style restaurant with long lines), Osteria Ponte Sisto (charming, quaint), and Mama Eat (got pizza) all in the Trastevere neighborhood. I would have loved to have had time to check out La Rosetta (for seafood in the Pantheon vicinity, expensive), Roscioli (small, Michelin Rated, in Campe de Fiori area), Gelataria Valentino (Trevi), and Feffo for pastries (in Vatican). By the end of my Roman holiday, I could not eat anymore food or drink anymore wine. I wanted to try everything and my stomach was just not big enough to handle it all! I recommend having a coffee and pastry in the morning, a very light lunch, gelato or pastry as a snack, and then pasta or pizza for dinner. The Tiber river reminds me of the Siene in Paris. Live music, couples strolling by, dim lights. Very romantic. I will definitely be back in Italy and passing through Rome again. I would love to explore Puglia and I haven’t been to the Amalfi coast. Sardinia island sounds beautiful too. So many places to explore!

Lisbon (2 nights): My next stop was Lisbon, Portugal. It was my first time in Portugal and I absolutely loved it. People were not as friendly as in Italy, but it was still a great experience. Portugal reminded me of a European version of California. The food was delicious! All my favorites—clams and prawns simmered in garlic and wine. My meals were light because it was mostly seafood, which was more my vibe. Meals were significantly less expensive than the United States and for seafood too! I loved their Pastel de Nata egg custard tarts. Crispy, flakey goodness. Lisbon was still a lot of walking, with cobblestone streets and lots of hills, which was challenging for me after I had just completed an exhausting week in Italy. I wish I had more time in Lisbon actually. I stayed at My Story Hotel Ouro for 2 nights in the Baixa neighborhood, walked around the Alfama district, lunched at the Time Out Lisboa Market, explored the LX Factory (hipster, warehouse area converted into art studios, shops, a variety of restaurants with outdoor space and live music), and got Pastel de Natas at Manteigara. Many blogs suggest going to Bairro Alto for drinks, dinner, and nightlife. Personally, I did not like this area. It’s very hilly. The little cobblestone streets are charming but the area felt very trashy to me. Spring break college drunk vibe. I wouldn’t recommend this area or maybe I’m too old for it. I wouldn’t stay at My Story Hotel Ouro again. The service was not that friendly and the hallways wreaked of their perfume. The room was tiny. On my first night in Lisbon, I felt so worn down by all the travel and walking. My allergies were acting up and my body reacted to all the cigarette smoke. So all I wanted on my first night in Lisbon was noodle soup! Not too far from my hotel, I found Boa Bao and was pleasantly surprised at how delicious the Asian food was! I ordered the most amazing pho and duck bao. It’s a fun spot with a vibe. They offer a variety of modern Asian food. In addition to Boa Bao, I was surprised at how international Lisbon was. I also had the most delicious breakfast at Dear Breakfast in Alfama. I loved Antiga Wine Bar, bordering on the Alfama district as well. It’s small and quaint but has a really good light menu. I spent a day visiting Sintra, Pena Palace, and Cascais. This was part of a tour, but I personally, didn’t think it was worth it. I would have rather spent that time exploring more of Lisbon. The tour was $70 and didn’t even included tickets into the palace so basically it was a glorified taxi ride with multiple stops and a tour guide. If you want, you could visit the palace on your own by taking a train, which is so much cheaper. It’s only 30 minutes away. But my tour was all day because of all the stops. I found the tour sort of boring so I don’t recommend it. Spend more time in Lisbon. Avenida da Liberdade is their high end shopping district. I walked though it but unless you want to do some high end shopping, I didn’t think there was much to see. There might be some fun vibey restaurants to check out in that area though if you are looking for that.

Lagos (3 nights): After 2 days in Lisbon, I took the Rede Espresso bus (I purchased them online 2 days before) to the south of Portugal to explore Lagos in the the Algarve region. The bus ticket there was only $15 euro and the return ticket was $10 euro. It’s a 3.5 hour ride and it’s fairly comfortable with wifi and a toilet on board. Remember to bring 50 cents to use the bus toilet or get change from the driver during your ride. It’s located in the middle of the bus by the side entrance, labeled WC on level with the lower steps, lower than the seat level, almost hidden. I didn’t see it the first time because I was looking at the back of the bus or an elevated bathroom. On my first ride, I held in my bladder and didn’t drink any water for fear of needing to pee. I was dehydrated. I don’t want you to make the same mistake! The only reason I noticed the toilet on my second bus ride, back to Lisbon, was because I saw someone walk out of it. Anyway, that was a learning experience. You can also take a train to Lagos but I think it’s more expensive and not direct. You’d have to take the train to Faro and then switch trains to get to Lagos, whereas the bus is direct. Both take the same amount of time. I spent 3 nights and 3 days in Lagos and it was lovely! However, I would not recommend staying at the Tivoli Resort. It was awful! The photos on the website looked way better than reality. The service was terrible. My room was like a mile away from the front desk and uphill within the resort as well, and it was completely outdated and sort of creepy. The staff members were negative, unwelcoming and almost rude, unhelpful, and didn’t even offer to assist with my luggage. It was mostly occupied by senior citizens. The location was good though. It’s near the bus station and the train station and it’s only a 10 minute (uphill) walk into town. Old town is cute with so many shops and restaurants. Although, I’m not sure you need to stay near town. Uber is quite common in Portugal and a lot less expensive than taxis. You can stay further away for a better relaxed vacation vibe and just Uber into town. Or if you rent a car, even better. Some people I met in Lagos were staying at the Belmar Spa and Beach Resort and had highly recommended it. The reason I didn’t stay as far was because I was traveling solo and didn’t want to feel as isolated. But in hindsight, solo or not, being a little further away in a nicer spot would have made my trip more relaxing. There are only so many times you may even want to walk into old town. Casa Mae and Lagos Avenida hotels also looked like great options for a hotel in town, but a little pricier.

On my first full day, I Ubered (less than 10 minutes) to Praia de Don Ana because it was a recommended beach with dramatic cliffs. It was beautiful but the water had a lot of kelp which wasn’t pleasant to be in but was scenic for pictures. Near Praia de Don Ana is Carvi Beach Hotel where Lucas Rooftop restaurant is located. After the beach, I stopped here to have more Portuguese clams (Bulhao Pato). Then I Ubered (less than 10 minutes) to Ponte de Piedade cliffs where there are a group of breathtaking rock formations. These are the same rock formations that I saw on my boat tour the next day, but from a different angle. It was a little windy in this area so you have to be careful when taking photos as you can fall off the cliff! But it was seriously so beautiful. You can actually walk a lot of the coast of Lagos stopping at all the sights via Seven Hanging Valley trail, but I did not have the energy for more walking. I walked some of the trail because the walkway/path intersected at Ponte de Piedade and Praia de Don Ana. I walked by Praia de Camilo beach (another small beach with cliffs) from Ponte de Piedade but was too tired to explore that beach. It looked like it could have been nicer than Praia de Don Ana (perhaps cleaner without kelp?). It’s located right next to Camilo Restaurant, which looks like a good stop for good food and a view. I think that in hindsight, Praia de Camilo beach and Camilo restaurant for lunch would have been a better option vs Praia de Don Ana and Lucas Rooftop because you can walk there from Ponte de Piedade (which I really enjoyed). For laying out and enjoying the beach without kelp, I really enjoyed relaxing at Duna Beach. It’s an easy, white sand beach that stretches for miles. No dramatic cliffs or rocks but super relaxing, calm, clean, clear waters. It has several restaurants on the beach, so you can also stop for food and drinks easily without having to climb up steep steps. On my last day in Lagos, I went on an amazing half day (4 hour) Blue Cruise boat tour with Blue Fleet. It was so relaxing, which was the type of tour I was looking for. It was only $55 and included snacks, lunch, and unlimited drinks while you tour the coast and caves of the south of Portugal. They also give you time to swim. The boat has a small bathroom as well. I met the loveliest people on the tour. I had originally wanted to see the famous Benagil caves but all the tours from Lagos were speedboats and didn’t allow you to disembark so I didn’t think it was worth it. And it didn’t sound relaxing. April is preseason for boat tours though so there may be more options in the summer. Plus, Lagos is a bit far from Benagil. If you’re staying closer, perhaps in Portimao, there may be better tours offered to explore Benagil. My tour went up the coast past Ponte de Piedade, which is in the other direction. I dined at Mimar for wine and tapas and Don Sebastio (Michelin rated casual seafood restaurant with large portions) for seafood rice. I would have loved to try Restaurant de Artistas (also Michelin rated but fancier, small bites) but I was saving that special meal for my last night of my vacation in Lisbon. Mar D’Estorias was a cute little shop in town that also has a rooftop restaurant with a small menu. I also wanted to try Tasca Jota, London Tiger Coffee, Taberna Da Mo, Taninos Wine & Kitchen.

Lisbon (1 additional night): On my last night in Lisbon, Portugal, and my European vacation (2 weeks), I stayed at the My Story Hotel Figueira and loved it. Spacious room, lively restaurant, great service, and a central location. It was the perfect accommodation for the end of my trip. Not to be confused with the other My Story Hotels. I stayed at the My Story Hotel Ouro during the first part of my Lisbon trip and I did not like it at all. Tiny rooms, unfriendly, rude staff, and really strong, unpleasant perfume scented hallways and rooms. Fortunately, the Figueira location was so much nicer! Still had a similar perfume scent as the Ouro location, but a lot more mild. There are also alternative boat accommodation options (The Homeboat Company) at the marina that I think could be fun to stay at. If I had more time, I would have tried that! To celebrate my last night in Lisbon, I enjoyed a special 3 hour and 11 course meal at this charming Michelin rated restaurant on a cute street in the Principal Real district Chef Louise Bourrat won the French version of Bravo Top Chef and manages a women run kitchen. I sat front row at the kitchen bar and got to watch the chefs in action but their back patio is really charming as well. There were two tasting menus to choose from, one inclusive of seafood and meat and the other entirely vegetarian, with the option to add on a wine pairing. My favorite dish was the lamb, which is surprising because I hardly ever eat lamb. The amberjack hamachi was another favorite but all the dishes were delish It was the loveliest last night in Lisbon! I wish I had time to explore more of Principal Real because it looked charming and upscale. I would have loved to have had time for drinks and a bite at Lumi (upscale restaurant with a rootop terrace with a view in the upper part of Bairro Alto, need a reservation) and ceviche at A Cevicheria. If you’re looking for coffee shops, Comoba (near Time Out Market) and Hygge (near Avenue de Liberade) were also recommended to me. In addition to the clams and prawns, tinned fish, particularly sardines, are very popular in Portugal. I don’t love the idea of tinned fish so I didn’t try any at restaurants because I didn’t have anyone to share it with and preferred to pick other dishes. But I did buy some as gifts to bring back home. They serve their tinned fish on toast. Fish croquettes are also popular but I didn’t love it when I tried it. I much preferred ordering clams, prawns, and mixed seafood rice. Whenever I ordered clams or prawns, I’d order a side of rice and pour that into the leftover garlic sauce. Portugal very much reminded me of California. It was charming with it’s cobblestone streets, hills, views, coast, and colorful buildings with beautiful patterned tiles and romantic iron balconies. It’s very international and has delicious seafood. I would love to return and visit Porto and other parts of the Algarve region. I was surprised to have met so many Americans on this part of the trip, on my tours, and when I dined solo sitting at the restaurant bars.

Some travel tips: Most places accept credit card, but majority did not accept American Express. For the most part, you can get away with not bringing cash. However, a few coins were needed for toilets in public places, such as buses, bus stations, train stations, and tourist sights. Some taxis in Portugal did not accept credit card but that was before I discovered I could Uber. I didn’t Uber at all in Italy. It was not really available in Florence and in Rome, I didn’t even bother. It didn’t occur to me because in Florence, it wasn’t an option. We took the tram, mostly walked everywhere, and called a taxi if needed. But in Portugal, I’m thankful the hotel staff recommended Uber because it was less than half the cost of a taxi. Most people in both countries speak English. A great meal in Italy and Portugal are a fraction of the cost in the U.S. and you don’t need to tip. Wear comfy shoes because you’ll be walking a lot, over cobblestone, and uphill. I packed cute shoes, which I managed to wear to Boubou on my very last night in Lisbon but only because I Ubered. Most days, I wore sneakers. I brought one pair of day sneakers for all the walking (Vans) and a pair of nicer white sneakers for dinner and going out at night, that I could wear with pants or a dress. Nice shoes will be ruined with the cobblestone. Most hotels don’t provide water. If they do, it’s a small bottle and then they’ll over-charge you 3 euro to drink their small bottled water in their mini fridge. Better to go to a market and buy a big bottle of water for 60 cent to bring back to the hotel. Europeans often are on strike. You will encounter delays with flights, trains, and traffic because of protests, which they refer to as “manifestations.” Bring allergy meds because of the cigarette smoke. People will rudely smoke next you at a restaurant. Make dinner reservations. Europeans eat late. A lot of restaurants don’t even open until 12:30pm for lunch and 7pm or 7:30pm for dinner. If you want to eat at a restaurant without a reservation, I’d recommend going on the early end when it opens. Otherwise, you might get turned down or stuck waiting. Check out my Instagram for more photos and details of the restaurants I visited and meals I ate. All vacation story recaps are in my highlights. Make sure you like them, share, and follow me!

Oh gosh. Writing this blog post makes me really hungry. It also makes me wish I was still on vacay. The wonderful thing about vacation is that my only goal each day was to explore, try some place new, decide which delicious meal I’m going to eat next, go on a new adventure, and do something that brings me joy. It was all about embracing happiness and pleasure, which can be difficult to do at home when you’re stressed and overwhelmed. I enjoyed being forced to be present and disconnect a little bit from technology, reality, people, toxicity, and responsibilities. I haven’t done that in a long time. It was GREAT! I hope I can continue protecting those boundaries now that I am back home. I hope I can hold onto the peace that I felt there for a little bit longer. I’d like to practice integrating that peace and calm into my everyday life. I think I have awakened my travel bug. Where should I go next?