Annual Birthday Trip: Maui

Every year, I travel for my birthday. I started this tradition in 2018 because I just didn’t feel like hosting dinners anymore. Not that there’s anything wrong with hosting dinners, but it was starting to feel awkward as I got older because of combining different friend groups who don’t really mesh and not wanting to leave anyone out. In those situations, it’s difficult as a guest to mingle when you’re seated at a big table, stuck talking to the stranger sitting next to you. I always feel weird having my friends pay for me. My new tradition has been more fun because I get to pick a different destination every year. I’ve done a few yoga retreats on my birthday, and some of those have been enjoyable, but those are a week long and don’t give you as much flexibility for exploring, so I’ve stopped doing them. Sometimes friends have joined me on my trips, sometimes I’m solo. Either way, I’m exploring somewhere new and that’s always a great way to spend a birthday. This year, I chose Maui.

In the past, my birthday trips have been a week long. But I had just come back from traveling to Europe in Sept for a week, and didn’t feel like another week long commitment. I wanted a short relaxing escape. I decided on Maui because it’s not too far from LA. I could do a short, easy, low-planning 3-day trip. Plus, I had been before and had done all the touristy things. This time, I wouldn’t feel the pressure to see the whole island. I could spend more time relaxing. I knew that I wanted to base myself in Wailea this time because I hadn’t really explored that area before. It’s known for it’s luxury resorts. I am always hesitant to commit to a locations or hotel I’m unfamiliar with. Usually, when I travel, I’ll split my stay up at one budget-friendly area and then splurge on a nicer hotel. It makes staying at the nicer hotel that much sweeter.

For my first 2 nights, I stayed at Maui Coast Hotel in S. Kihei, which neighbors Wailea. This area is the more budget friendly for those who want to spend time in Wailea. It was decently priced and spacious. They have a pool, but I didn’t use it at all because I was out exploring. The room was the first one closest to the entrance on the first floor, so it was a bit loud. The back patio was a view of the parking lot. Not the best room! But I guess, you get what you pay for! Make sure you request an upper floor that doesn’t have a view of the parking lot or pay a little more for a better room. The receptionist made it sound like she gave me a complimentary upgrade because I was in the newer building, but the room location did not feel like an upgrade at all. However, this would not deter me from staying here again. Overall, the room was nice, clean, spacious, and comfortable. The room also had a fridge and a microwave. The hotel is located across the street from the beach and within walking distance of local restaurants. In addition, they offer free shuttle service and pick up within a 5 mile radius of the hotel. That was a nice benefit that I took full advantage of because I went to Wailea everyday. I didn’t spend much time at the hotel, which is why I’m glad I chose to stay at a budget friendly spot for the first two nights.

Straight from the airport, I headed to Sugar Beach Bake Shop because I wanted to try their famous malasadas, particularly the ube and coconut filled ones. Sadly, they sold out by the time I got there around 12:30pm. They say that I need to come before 10am, but I didn’t want to Uber/Lyft specifically there for a donut later because the donut would end up costing $30-$40 with the roundtrip car ride. The reason I had chosen to go straight from the airport was because it was on the way to the hotel, but too far out of the shuttle radius to go from the hotel on another day. I was disappointed, and instead went next door to the famous Ululani’s Hawaiian Shaved Ice and it was fantastic. I now get the hype of shaved ice. I didn’t understand what was so exciting about ice before. It’s so finely shaved that it tastes like ice cream with the house-made flavoring/syrup! I like the coconut and mango flavors with the snow cap (condensed milk) and mochi topping.

After checking into Maui Coast Hotel and freshening up, I took their shuttle to South Maui Gardens. I had never been before, but saw images of it on Tiktok and really wanted to try it out. It’s so cute! A zen garden with lots of buddha statues, giant life-size games, a tortoise sanctuary, live entertainment (including hula shows), picnic tables, play area, and a variety of food trucks. I specifically wanted to try Kitoko’s because of the images I had seen on Instagram and it did not disappoint! It’s a fancy food truck with creative flavors and beautiful presentation. I enjoyed their crispy pork belly with Japanese sweet potato gnocchi and their grilled shrimp with papaya salad. I wish I could have tried more of their menu because everything sounded appetizing and interesting. I loved the garden seating. It was such a relaxing and peaceful vibe. I definitely recommend checking out South Maui Gardens. Because they have hula shows and live entertainment, I think it’s a great affordable alternative to going to a luau.

Next, I decided to have drinks at The Andaz Hotel. I had read that it has a great view from their Lehua Lounge. While it does have a great view, Lehua Lounge is just a poolside bar. Very casual and very average drinks. Great unobstructed panoramic view though! You could also get a great view from Miromoto’s at The Andaz if you dined there and got a table outside. But I didn’t want to eat there and the bar area of the restaurant does not face the view. Instead, I decided to go to Monkeypod for dinner and sat at the bar, and wow, was it packed and lively at 6:30pm! It was so fun though! A man sitting next to me was celebrating his birthday solo that night so we bonded over our shared November birthday week and both got free pie for dessert. I would recommend Monkeypod for dinner one night and skip out on Lehua Lounge. Monkeypod doesn’t have a view though, but it would be a fun casual dinner spot for after sunset. The food and cocktails were pretty good.

On day two, I woke up early and took the shuttle to Island Gourmet Market at The Shops at Wailea. It’s right behind The Marriott hotel. Picked up an iced matcha latte and walked the Wailea Beach coastal path by cutting through The Marriott Hotel. It’s such a beautiful walk and you pass by all the luxury resorts. I walked through some of the hotels and they are quite overwhelming. You could get lost in them! Wailea beach was so nice and the water was so warm and calming. I live in Los Angeles, but I never go to the beach. I don’t consider myself a beach person, but a beach on vacay just hits differently, ya know? I didn’t think about work once. I didn’t think about anything stressful. I felt so at peace. Afterwards, I walked back to The Shops at Wailea. I wanted to get another iced matcha at the Maui Matcha stand, but didn’t feel like waiting in line. I had expected more places to carry good matcha options because Hawaii is closer to Japan, but it wasn’t on a lot of menus. I went back to Island Gourmet Market because my sister wanted me to pick up Piaca Pineapple Shortbread Cookie with fruit filling. I love grocery stores and this place has so many goodies! You can pick up pre-made packaged food (salads, sushi, rice bowls) or made-to-order food, as well as charcuterie and fresh fruit for a picnic on the beach or to bring back to your hotel. They also carry souvenirs and alcohol.

That second night, I went on the most magical Sunset Dinner Cruise with Kai Kanani Sailing. They do hotel pick up from most hotels in Wailea or can pick you up from their office in Wailea. This tour group is a great option for those staying in Wailea. If you’re staying in West Maui, it’s better to look for a different tour group so you don’t have to drive far. Kai Kanani provides van transportation for everyone to Maluaka Beach close by, where we board a catamaran. It’s a 2 hour cruise where they serve you cocktails and dinner. On our cruise, we were surrounded by at least a dozen whales swimming around us. It was a bit early for whale season and this wasn’t even a whale watching tour, so this was the best surprise! On the last supermoon of the year too! I don’t think I’ve ever been a whale person, but I was probably the most excited person on the boat! It was so beautiful to see these large creatures swimming as the sun was setting over the water. What an unforgettable experience! You’ll have to watch my videos on Instagram of the whales and of my whole trip. I have a dedicated highlight for Maui in my Instagram bio.

After the cruise, I stopped at The Birdcage for drinks. It’s located in Hotel Wailea and is basically their lobby lounge. It is shaped as a birdcage and lovebirds (actual birds) do come into the open-air bar and sing. But since I got there closer to 6:30pm after the sun had just set, most of them had gone to bed. This bar would have been the perfect option to watch the sunset. The view is not as unobstructed as The Andaz, but definitely a better vibe with better cocktails. I just loved the idea of sitting with lovebirds singing around you as you watch the sunset.

On my 3rd day, my last day and my birthday, I treated myself to a stay at The Four Seasons Hotel. Because I’ve heard of so many people going to Maui and staying at The Four Seasons, I had to try it for myself. They offer complimentary activities and shuttle service as well. I intentionally checked into the hotel super early at 7:30am so that I could join their beach yoga class. My room wasn’t ready, but that was okay because I wanted to take full advantage of their amenities. I got lei-d as soon as I arrived. After yoga, I changed into my swimsuit, picked up an iced matcha latte, and headed back to the beach. The Four Seasons offer beach chairs to their guests. Though I didn’t really need a chair because I spent the entire time in the ocean! It was so lovely! Then at the last minute, there was a cancellation for their last outrigger canoe tour of the day. I just happened to run into them getting ready to embark. This complimentary activity was listed on their schedule, but it mistakenly said Mon-Fri only. I was lucky to catch them when I did! It was so fun! We rowed around the coast, saw some sea turtles swim by us, and then stopped to snorkel. One of the guides, played ukulele and sang to us. I love ukulele. It’s so romantic.

My room was still not ready by noon, so I got a cabana by the pool and ordered lunch. My server was so wonderful and accommodating. I wanted to try everything, but it would be too much food. So he got me half portions. I wanted wings and their signature salad, but was also pondering their Wagyu Yasoba noodles with bok choy and shiitake mushrooms. My server said he can make anything half portion for me to try and he comped my whole meal because it was my birthday! I thought he meant he was going to comp one cocktail, but he comped the entire bill! What a sweetie! And there I was eating buffalo wings with my hands—probably the most unrefined thing to eat at a luxury resort! But that was what my belly wanted on my birthday: good bad food, if that makes any sense. With pina coladas, which were amazing! I was living the life! I have never been a resort girl, but staying at The Four Seasons resort in Maui is an entirely different experience. Although I’m sure it’s on par with it’s neighbors like The Andaz, The Grand Wailea, and The Fairmont, but I felt it was more manageable and not as overwhelmingly huge. That day, I decided I do like resorts and I love when cute men wait on me, ready to accommodate my every need. I could do this more often. I should do this more often. Side note: The Four Seasons has only 2 pools and the adult pool fills up fast. You need to reserve beds with shade in advance via a waitlist, otherwise there won’t be space. It was fully packed when I got there around 11:30am so I stayed in the main pool area where there were some kids. Not a big deal, but the adult pool had swim up bars and a view. I heard the Andaz has multiple infinity style pool options.

My room was not ready until 2pm, and by then, I was so exhausted from, you know, relaxing all morning. I just wanted to shower and curl up in bed. The Four Seasons gave me a complimentary upgrade from their Mountainside room to their Deluxe Garden-view. There was Hawaiian music playing in the bathroom when I entered. The room was spacious with a couch area and a balcony. I wish I could have stayed in the room longer, lounging in my robe, sitting on the balcony, but I only had enough time to shower and then had to get ready for a sunset cocktail pre-dinner.

I ordered an espresso martini at the bar at Ferraro’s (on their lower floor, closer to the beach) and it was probably one of the best I’ve had! I think because they topped it with cinnamon. I loved that they served olives and crispy chickpeas with their cocktails. The bar is facing away from the beach, so you have to turn to watch the sunset or eat dinner on their patio. I had debated having my birthday dinner at Ferraro’s, but had decided on Spago’s instead because I have enjoyed Wolfgang Puck’s other restaurants. I’m sure Ferraro’s is good, but I’m so particular about Italian food and I didn’t see anything on the menu that I felt drawn to. But I enjoyed my cocktail, snacks, and the vibe so much that it made me second-guess my decision.

Spago’s is located on their lobby level, which is technically their 2nd floor up from the beach. The bar area does not have a view. I think there could be a nice view at sunset if you dine al fresco and are seated on the beach-facing side of the restaurant. But the sun sets so early now at 5pm-5:30pm that it’s really hard to catch the sunset without eating dinner early because most bars are indoors and not facing the view. You can only get a good view if you are seated at a dinner table. My dinner resy was way after sunset and they sat me at a table on the side of the patio that faces the pool. The vibe didn’t feel as social as Ferraro’s. At Ferraro’s, as soon as you walk into the outdoor space, the lively bar is right there, upfront. At Spago’s, the bar area is sort of to the left and hidden. You bypass it entirely when you walk into the restaurant. The layout did not feel as cohesive or welcoming. I got a lychee martini and the martini didn’t even have a lychee in it! I was bit disappointed by the cocktail. I got a Lobster Ceviche with papaya salad, ahi tuna cones, and tagliatelle with local mushrooms. The lobster dish was my favorite. The cones were a bit sweet and the tagliatelle could have used more salt. It was good and I enjoyed my meal, but it wasn’t amazing. I prefer Wolfgang’s Merois in Los Angeles. I think that Ferraro’s would have been a more fun choice. Next time!

On my last morning in Maui, I woke up early to take full advantage of the beach. I wanted to get my toes wet and walk on the sand one last time. I had breakfast at Duo’s, which is a seafood and steakhouse at The Four Seasons. They offer a breakfast buffet for $57, but I ordered a la carte. It’s worth it to do buffet if you want to order coffee, juice, or pastries because one entree is already $34 before you add on extras so you might as well pay $57 and get everything. I am not really a breakfast girl, but because I was flying out that afternoon, I needed to eat before heading to the airport. FYI. Maui airport is small and there’s no Delta Sky Club Lounge, so do not get there earlier than an hour. My flight was at 1:30pm and I got to the airport before 12pm and it felt like I was too early. Spend every last minute soaking in the beach vibes before you leave! Also, I want to note that Duo’s does not have a good bar area either. It’s a bit disappointing that The Four Season’s doesn’t have many fun bar area options on-site in Wailea, except for Ferraro’s, but that’s not enough space for a hotel of their size. They have the lobby lounge, but it’s usually busy and packed and you need to get on a waitlist.

I think a short trip to Maui is a great weekend escape. However, if you’ve never been before, you’d probably want to spend at least 5 days there, rent a car, and book an AirBnB. It can be a lot of driving, but there is so much beauty on the island. You’d want to dedicate a day to driving the road to Hana yourself or doing a tour, stopping at the bamboo forest, black sanded beach, and waterfalls along the way. I would also recommend going on a boat tour, either a day snorkeling tour or a sunset tour. Some people drive to the top of the volcano to watch the sunset, but it is a bit of an early drive so I have yet to experience it. Another day option would be to explore Paia town and beach. I remember it being beautiful because of it’s white sand, but the waves were strong and there was a dip from the sand into the water. It was quiet though and not as touristy, which was nice. I think experiencing a traditional luau is a must. It’s a little pricey, but it is a lovely Hawaiian experience with a buffet dinner, roasted pig, hula show, live music, and dancing. The one I attended years ago seated you at communal tables with strangers. As I mentioned earlier, South Maui Gardens is a great (budget friendly and commitment friendly) alternative to a luau because you can dine at the food trucks and still get a show.

I really loved my Maui trip. It was such a nice treat to give myself. Wish I could have stayed their longer. It was such a nice indulgence! Now, where should I go next?

Spring Break: Italy & Portugal

It has been awhile since I have written. Life can be so confusing. I think I’m going through a mid-life crisis. Is that possible? Something had been feeling off and it had been difficult to pinpoint. But I knew, I needed to change my environment, even if temporarily, to change my energy, flow, and focus. I took advantage of an opportunity to escape to Europe because my neighbor was going to be spending an extended amount of time in Italy. I had been to Italy so many times before, but it had been a decade since. Plus, I love Italian food, pasta particularly. At the very last minute, I booked a trip because nothing was really happening for me in LA and I had the time. I had been stressed. I had been overwhelmed. I had been stuck. So why not? And since I love exploring new countries, why not add in Portugal too?

Florence (4 nights): My first stop was Florence, where I joined my neighbor and her sister. This brought back so many memories. I had first visited Florence when I was 19 years old, with two friends, after we completed our summer abroad in the countryside of France. I was so young! A baby! This was pre-technology and pre-smart phones. I stayed in hostels and used guidebooks. Back then, hostels were not as nice, modern, or fun as they are today. I roughed it. I guess my curiosity and desire to explore was always a part of me and it felt good to get back in touch with that part of me again. Travel is a privilege but adventure is within you. Since my neighbor was staying in Italy for the month, she got an Airbnb a bit outside of the city. This was a little annoying because we had to walk to get to a tram to get into the city, and then walk a bunch more. If you can, stay in the city center. It will make your life so much easier. During this trip, we dined at some really lovely restaurants such as La Menagere (a little fancy and romantic) and La Giostra (charming). We did not have reservations at either. Since Europeans typically eat late, we were able to get tables without reservations because we arrived early. However, I think we got lucky. You should definitely make reservations if you want to eat at the best spots. Some of the random spots we chose were not as good, but we were sometimes desperate because we didn’t have reservations and didn’t want to wait hours. We went wine tasting in Tuscany. Walked all over the city, averaging at least 15,000 steps a day, which is anywhere between 5-8 miles. We indulged in gelato. Since I had been to Florence before, I didn’t feel obligated to wait in line to visit all of the museums. I don’t even think I have the patience now to do it. I was still very exhausted from all the walking though. We saw the Duomo, walked across Ponte Vecchio, shopped at the Central Market (bought truffle slices), climbed up to Piazzale Michelangelo for a view of the city, and explored many of the small, cobblestone streets. There were a few restaurants/bars that I wish we had time to try, such as Floreal (cool looking bar), lo Osteria Personale (small, quaint, wine-bar vibe, Michelin-rated), Gurdulu (casual, hip), and Zeb (casual, diner style, Michelin rated) in the Santo Spirito neighborhood. But I guess I’ll have to save that for next time!

Rome (3 nights): Rome was my second stop and also the first part of my solo adventure. We took the train to Rome together from Florence but then separated at the end of the day. They proceeded onto Naples and Pompeii and I decided to stay in Rome. I had not really traveled abroad solo since pre-pandemic. I was a little nervous about this when I booked the trip but once I got into my groove, I felt in my element. I stayed near the Trevi fountain at Relais 95 Trevi for one night but I would not do that again. The hotel was fine with a rooftop terrace and friendly staff. The room was small though and the area was overly crowded with tourists. The second two nights, I stayed in Trastavere, which I preferred. It’s close enough but away from the touristy sites. I stayed at Palazzo Baj, which is more like a guest house. The room was spacious and clean, but the bed was memory foam and super uncomfortable. Memory foam beds and pillows are something your body needs to get used to. It’s not something that should be offered for a random stay at a hotel. I’m surprised that they only provided memory foams beds because it’s not for everyone. I think a standard mattress would be more universally pleasing. The staff was super friendly and helpful but they were rarely to be seen on the premises. If you email the hotel in advance, it takes days to get a response. You have to make an appointment to check in. When you get your hotel confirmation, you can’t respond back to the email from which it comes from. You have to respond to the email listed at the bottom of the confirmation email. I made that mistake and waited days with no response. But even when you email the correct address, it still takes days and follow up. They didn’t provide complimentary water in the room but when I had written a review about this on Tripadvisor, the owner said that they provided complimentary water. I didn’t see it. I only saw small water bottles in the mini bar which had a listed fee. They had complimentary water in a large carafe in the lounge but they didn’t refill the bottle regularly. Since there was no staff around to inform, I couldn’t refill my water bottle from the water in the lounge and I wasn’t sure if the tap water from the faucet was safe. Sorry, don’t mean to go off about water but with all the walking, I was exhausted and dehydrated and sometimes did not get the chance to search for a market to pick up a bottle. The guesthouse was also a little isolated from the main area of Trastavere, about a 12 minute walk. There aren’t as many mid-range hotel options in Trastavere so you could also stay in Piazza Navona or Campe de Fiore or Vatican if you want something quiet. Airbnb is an option too. But I would stay away from Trevi, Pantheon, and the Colosseum.

The last time I had been to Rome was with my college boyfriend when I was 22 years old. Even a second time around, the colosseum was still mesmerizing. I took a fun cooking class and learned how to make tiramisu and pasta from scratch without a machine. I ate so much pasta and dessert. I tried Maritozza con La Panna for the first time because it’s in the windows of every pastry shop. It’s a sweet bun filled with milk cream. I enjoyed it but it was a little too much cream and bread for me. But definitely worth trying or sharing with someone! I also had Sfogliatelle for the first time. This I could handle because they have mini versions. Though I could probably eat the entire full sized version because that’s how much I loved it! But I wouldn’t say that they are made equally at every café. I had quite a few of these and only one that I really loved. Usually, they are chocolate, custard, pistachio, or jam filled. I found one that was filled with Chantilly cream and that was heaven! I loved the crispiness of this pastry. I had the best charcuterie board at Pane E Salami (tavern style) near the Trevi Fountain. They also offer sandwiches, vegetarian boards, and bruschetta. The cured meats and tomatoes are just so much tastier in Italy! I dined at Coromandel (cozy breakfast spot near past Piazza Navona) and Tonnarello (very popular, casual family style restaurant with long lines), Osteria Ponte Sisto (charming, quaint), and Mama Eat (got pizza) all in the Trastevere neighborhood. I would have loved to have had time to check out La Rosetta (for seafood in the Pantheon vicinity, expensive), Roscioli (small, Michelin Rated, in Campe de Fiori area), Gelataria Valentino (Trevi), and Feffo for pastries (in Vatican). By the end of my Roman holiday, I could not eat anymore food or drink anymore wine. I wanted to try everything and my stomach was just not big enough to handle it all! I recommend having a coffee and pastry in the morning, a very light lunch, gelato or pastry as a snack, and then pasta or pizza for dinner. The Tiber river reminds me of the Siene in Paris. Live music, couples strolling by, dim lights. Very romantic. I will definitely be back in Italy and passing through Rome again. I would love to explore Puglia and I haven’t been to the Amalfi coast. Sardinia island sounds beautiful too. So many places to explore!

Lisbon (2 nights): My next stop was Lisbon, Portugal. It was my first time in Portugal and I absolutely loved it. People were not as friendly as in Italy, but it was still a great experience. Portugal reminded me of a European version of California. The food was delicious! All my favorites—clams and prawns simmered in garlic and wine. My meals were light because it was mostly seafood, which was more my vibe. Meals were significantly less expensive than the United States and for seafood too! I loved their Pastel de Nata egg custard tarts. Crispy, flakey goodness. Lisbon was still a lot of walking, with cobblestone streets and lots of hills, which was challenging for me after I had just completed an exhausting week in Italy. I wish I had more time in Lisbon actually. I stayed at My Story Hotel Ouro for 2 nights in the Baixa neighborhood, walked around the Alfama district, lunched at the Time Out Lisboa Market, explored the LX Factory (hipster, warehouse area converted into art studios, shops, a variety of restaurants with outdoor space and live music), and got Pastel de Natas at Manteigara. Many blogs suggest going to Bairro Alto for drinks, dinner, and nightlife. Personally, I did not like this area. It’s very hilly. The little cobblestone streets are charming but the area felt very trashy to me. Spring break college drunk vibe. I wouldn’t recommend this area or maybe I’m too old for it. I wouldn’t stay at My Story Hotel Ouro again. The service was not that friendly and the hallways wreaked of their perfume. The room was tiny. On my first night in Lisbon, I felt so worn down by all the travel and walking. My allergies were acting up and my body reacted to all the cigarette smoke. So all I wanted on my first night in Lisbon was noodle soup! Not too far from my hotel, I found Boa Bao and was pleasantly surprised at how delicious the Asian food was! I ordered the most amazing pho and duck bao. It’s a fun spot with a vibe. They offer a variety of modern Asian food. In addition to Boa Bao, I was surprised at how international Lisbon was. I also had the most delicious breakfast at Dear Breakfast in Alfama. I loved Antiga Wine Bar, bordering on the Alfama district as well. It’s small and quaint but has a really good light menu. I spent a day visiting Sintra, Pena Palace, and Cascais. This was part of a tour, but I personally, didn’t think it was worth it. I would have rather spent that time exploring more of Lisbon. The tour was $70 and didn’t even included tickets into the palace so basically it was a glorified taxi ride with multiple stops and a tour guide. If you want, you could visit the palace on your own by taking a train, which is so much cheaper. It’s only 30 minutes away. But my tour was all day because of all the stops. I found the tour sort of boring so I don’t recommend it. Spend more time in Lisbon. Avenida da Liberdade is their high end shopping district. I walked though it but unless you want to do some high end shopping, I didn’t think there was much to see. There might be some fun vibey restaurants to check out in that area though if you are looking for that.

Lagos (3 nights): After 2 days in Lisbon, I took the Rede Espresso bus (I purchased them online 2 days before) to the south of Portugal to explore Lagos in the the Algarve region. The bus ticket there was only $15 euro and the return ticket was $10 euro. It’s a 3.5 hour ride and it’s fairly comfortable with wifi and a toilet on board. Remember to bring 50 cents to use the bus toilet or get change from the driver during your ride. It’s located in the middle of the bus by the side entrance, labeled WC on level with the lower steps, lower than the seat level, almost hidden. I didn’t see it the first time because I was looking at the back of the bus or an elevated bathroom. On my first ride, I held in my bladder and didn’t drink any water for fear of needing to pee. I was dehydrated. I don’t want you to make the same mistake! The only reason I noticed the toilet on my second bus ride, back to Lisbon, was because I saw someone walk out of it. Anyway, that was a learning experience. You can also take a train to Lagos but I think it’s more expensive and not direct. You’d have to take the train to Faro and then switch trains to get to Lagos, whereas the bus is direct. Both take the same amount of time. I spent 3 nights and 3 days in Lagos and it was lovely! However, I would not recommend staying at the Tivoli Resort. It was awful! The photos on the website looked way better than reality. The service was terrible. My room was like a mile away from the front desk and uphill within the resort as well, and it was completely outdated and sort of creepy. The staff members were negative, unwelcoming and almost rude, unhelpful, and didn’t even offer to assist with my luggage. It was mostly occupied by senior citizens. The location was good though. It’s near the bus station and the train station and it’s only a 10 minute (uphill) walk into town. Old town is cute with so many shops and restaurants. Although, I’m not sure you need to stay near town. Uber is quite common in Portugal and a lot less expensive than taxis. You can stay further away for a better relaxed vacation vibe and just Uber into town. Or if you rent a car, even better. Some people I met in Lagos were staying at the Belmar Spa and Beach Resort and had highly recommended it. The reason I didn’t stay as far was because I was traveling solo and didn’t want to feel as isolated. But in hindsight, solo or not, being a little further away in a nicer spot would have made my trip more relaxing. There are only so many times you may even want to walk into old town. Casa Mae and Lagos Avenida hotels also looked like great options for a hotel in town, but a little pricier.

On my first full day, I Ubered (less than 10 minutes) to Praia de Don Ana because it was a recommended beach with dramatic cliffs. It was beautiful but the water had a lot of kelp which wasn’t pleasant to be in but was scenic for pictures. Near Praia de Don Ana is Carvi Beach Hotel where Lucas Rooftop restaurant is located. After the beach, I stopped here to have more Portuguese clams (Bulhao Pato). Then I Ubered (less than 10 minutes) to Ponte de Piedade cliffs where there are a group of breathtaking rock formations. These are the same rock formations that I saw on my boat tour the next day, but from a different angle. It was a little windy in this area so you have to be careful when taking photos as you can fall off the cliff! But it was seriously so beautiful. You can actually walk a lot of the coast of Lagos stopping at all the sights via Seven Hanging Valley trail, but I did not have the energy for more walking. I walked some of the trail because the walkway/path intersected at Ponte de Piedade and Praia de Don Ana. I walked by Praia de Camilo beach (another small beach with cliffs) from Ponte de Piedade but was too tired to explore that beach. It looked like it could have been nicer than Praia de Don Ana (perhaps cleaner without kelp?). It’s located right next to Camilo Restaurant, which looks like a good stop for good food and a view. I think that in hindsight, Praia de Camilo beach and Camilo restaurant for lunch would have been a better option vs Praia de Don Ana and Lucas Rooftop because you can walk there from Ponte de Piedade (which I really enjoyed). For laying out and enjoying the beach without kelp, I really enjoyed relaxing at Duna Beach. It’s an easy, white sand beach that stretches for miles. No dramatic cliffs or rocks but super relaxing, calm, clean, clear waters. It has several restaurants on the beach, so you can also stop for food and drinks easily without having to climb up steep steps. On my last day in Lagos, I went on an amazing half day (4 hour) Blue Cruise boat tour with Blue Fleet. It was so relaxing, which was the type of tour I was looking for. It was only $55 and included snacks, lunch, and unlimited drinks while you tour the coast and caves of the south of Portugal. They also give you time to swim. The boat has a small bathroom as well. I met the loveliest people on the tour. I had originally wanted to see the famous Benagil caves but all the tours from Lagos were speedboats and didn’t allow you to disembark so I didn’t think it was worth it. And it didn’t sound relaxing. April is preseason for boat tours though so there may be more options in the summer. Plus, Lagos is a bit far from Benagil. If you’re staying closer, perhaps in Portimao, there may be better tours offered to explore Benagil. My tour went up the coast past Ponte de Piedade, which is in the other direction. I dined at Mimar for wine and tapas and Don Sebastio (Michelin rated casual seafood restaurant with large portions) for seafood rice. I would have loved to try Restaurant de Artistas (also Michelin rated but fancier, small bites) but I was saving that special meal for my last night of my vacation in Lisbon. Mar D’Estorias was a cute little shop in town that also has a rooftop restaurant with a small menu. I also wanted to try Tasca Jota, London Tiger Coffee, Taberna Da Mo, Taninos Wine & Kitchen.

Lisbon (1 additional night): On my last night in Lisbon, Portugal, and my European vacation (2 weeks), I stayed at the My Story Hotel Figueira and loved it. Spacious room, lively restaurant, great service, and a central location. It was the perfect accommodation for the end of my trip. Not to be confused with the other My Story Hotels. I stayed at the My Story Hotel Ouro during the first part of my Lisbon trip and I did not like it at all. Tiny rooms, unfriendly, rude staff, and really strong, unpleasant perfume scented hallways and rooms. Fortunately, the Figueira location was so much nicer! Still had a similar perfume scent as the Ouro location, but a lot more mild. There are also alternative boat accommodation options (The Homeboat Company) at the marina that I think could be fun to stay at. If I had more time, I would have tried that! To celebrate my last night in Lisbon, I enjoyed a special 3 hour and 11 course meal at this charming Michelin rated restaurant on a cute street in the Principal Real district Chef Louise Bourrat won the French version of Bravo Top Chef and manages a women run kitchen. I sat front row at the kitchen bar and got to watch the chefs in action but their back patio is really charming as well. There were two tasting menus to choose from, one inclusive of seafood and meat and the other entirely vegetarian, with the option to add on a wine pairing. My favorite dish was the lamb, which is surprising because I hardly ever eat lamb. The amberjack hamachi was another favorite but all the dishes were delish It was the loveliest last night in Lisbon! I wish I had time to explore more of Principal Real because it looked charming and upscale. I would have loved to have had time for drinks and a bite at Lumi (upscale restaurant with a rootop terrace with a view in the upper part of Bairro Alto, need a reservation) and ceviche at A Cevicheria. If you’re looking for coffee shops, Comoba (near Time Out Market) and Hygge (near Avenue de Liberade) were also recommended to me. In addition to the clams and prawns, tinned fish, particularly sardines, are very popular in Portugal. I don’t love the idea of tinned fish so I didn’t try any at restaurants because I didn’t have anyone to share it with and preferred to pick other dishes. But I did buy some as gifts to bring back home. They serve their tinned fish on toast. Fish croquettes are also popular but I didn’t love it when I tried it. I much preferred ordering clams, prawns, and mixed seafood rice. Whenever I ordered clams or prawns, I’d order a side of rice and pour that into the leftover garlic sauce. Portugal very much reminded me of California. It was charming with it’s cobblestone streets, hills, views, coast, and colorful buildings with beautiful patterned tiles and romantic iron balconies. It’s very international and has delicious seafood. I would love to return and visit Porto and other parts of the Algarve region. I was surprised to have met so many Americans on this part of the trip, on my tours, and when I dined solo sitting at the restaurant bars.

Some travel tips: Most places accept credit card, but majority did not accept American Express. For the most part, you can get away with not bringing cash. However, a few coins were needed for toilets in public places, such as buses, bus stations, train stations, and tourist sights. Some taxis in Portugal did not accept credit card but that was before I discovered I could Uber. I didn’t Uber at all in Italy. It was not really available in Florence and in Rome, I didn’t even bother. It didn’t occur to me because in Florence, it wasn’t an option. We took the tram, mostly walked everywhere, and called a taxi if needed. But in Portugal, I’m thankful the hotel staff recommended Uber because it was less than half the cost of a taxi. Most people in both countries speak English. A great meal in Italy and Portugal are a fraction of the cost in the U.S. and you don’t need to tip. Wear comfy shoes because you’ll be walking a lot, over cobblestone, and uphill. I packed cute shoes, which I managed to wear to Boubou on my very last night in Lisbon but only because I Ubered. Most days, I wore sneakers. I brought one pair of day sneakers for all the walking (Vans) and a pair of nicer white sneakers for dinner and going out at night, that I could wear with pants or a dress. Nice shoes will be ruined with the cobblestone. Most hotels don’t provide water. If they do, it’s a small bottle and then they’ll over-charge you 3 euro to drink their small bottled water in their mini fridge. Better to go to a market and buy a big bottle of water for 60 cent to bring back to the hotel. Europeans often are on strike. You will encounter delays with flights, trains, and traffic because of protests, which they refer to as “manifestations.” Bring allergy meds because of the cigarette smoke. People will rudely smoke next you at a restaurant. Make dinner reservations. Europeans eat late. A lot of restaurants don’t even open until 12:30pm for lunch and 7pm or 7:30pm for dinner. If you want to eat at a restaurant without a reservation, I’d recommend going on the early end when it opens. Otherwise, you might get turned down or stuck waiting. Check out my Instagram for more photos and details of the restaurants I visited and meals I ate. All vacation story recaps are in my highlights. Make sure you like them, share, and follow me!

Oh gosh. Writing this blog post makes me really hungry. It also makes me wish I was still on vacay. The wonderful thing about vacation is that my only goal each day was to explore, try some place new, decide which delicious meal I’m going to eat next, go on a new adventure, and do something that brings me joy. It was all about embracing happiness and pleasure, which can be difficult to do at home when you’re stressed and overwhelmed. I enjoyed being forced to be present and disconnect a little bit from technology, reality, people, toxicity, and responsibilities. I haven’t done that in a long time. It was GREAT! I hope I can continue protecting those boundaries now that I am back home. I hope I can hold onto the peace that I felt there for a little bit longer. I’d like to practice integrating that peace and calm into my everyday life. I think I have awakened my travel bug. Where should I go next?

Eating My Way Through Panama

I love to travel every year for my birthday and this year was no different. I decided to do a Yoga Retreat in Panama, which allowed me to check off another country from my list. My birthday was back in November but time has flown by since! Spent one and a half weeks in Panama, then returned to several of my own birthday celebrations, then Thanksgiving, and now suddenly we’re deep into December holiday parties. And this is the reason for my super late post.

Panama is very similar to Costa Rica—mountains, lots of greenery, rainforests, beaches, and a beautiful countryside. The advantage that Panama has over Costa Rica is that the capital has a lot more to do—the famous Panama Canal, Old Town, variety of restaurants, and luxury hotels. I spent a few days in Panama City and was impressed with the food. Some of the restaurants I ate at are Lazotea, Mahalo, Maito, Santa Rita, and Fonda La Que Hay. While Maito is one of Latin America’s 50’s Best, my favorite experience was at Lazotea. Lazotea is set on the rooftop of a building in Panama’s Old Town. Fun ambiance and beautiful view. The dishes were delectible and creative. Their dessert was a show in itself with fresh rose petals freeze-dried at the table and sprinkled on top of a lychee mousse. Check out the reel I made showcasing my night at their restaurant. I also really loved exploring the night life and having drinks at La Pulperia, Casa Casco, Tantalo, Pedro’s Rum Bar, Selina, and Hotel La Compania. I stayed at American Trade Hotel, which is a great hotel conveniently located in the main square of old town. However, I really loved Hotel La Compania down the street. It’s a little pricier, which is why I didn’t end up staying there, but in hindsight, it probably would have been worth it. They have great hotel bar, a delicious restaurant (I had a really good matcha latte and salad there), and a cute courtyard. To see more pictures from my trip, make sure you check out my Instagram.

Most of my time was spent in Cambutal, which is a seven hour drive from the city. Cambutal is a small beachside town north of the Panama city, with black sanded beaches and surrounded by mountains. While the town is tiny and quaint, there are many outdoor excursions and adventure options available, such as surfing, horseback riding, hiking, waterfalls, and biking. However, I had the unfortunate bad luck of rain for 5 of the 6 days I was staying at the Sansora Resort in Cambutal. Because it was the end of rainy season, I had expected rain but was thinking it would be more like spurts of rain. I was wrong. It POURED for days nonstop. Not sure if I caught a virus or if it was the constant rain and humidity, but I got sick on my third day in Panama, which made most of the trip quite uncomfortable unfortunately.

Yoga classes were intense and I definitely got a good workout in. Other than that, I didn’t do much else but rest since I was sick. Some people went surfing, hiking, and horseback riding in the rain, but timing for that was limited due to the weather. The food was amazing though. We were served three meals a day and our dinner was a 3-course production. I don’t normally eat that much. I ate very well. So of course, I returned home at least 5 pounds heavier.

The trip wasn’t as relaxing as I had hoped. In addition to the rain and being sick, my only flip flops broke at the beginning of the trip, my clothes were stinky (from the humidity at the beach), I got 20 mosquito bites, 2 gigantic pimples on my face (that lefts scars). I was happy to return home to sunny LA. It’s definitely easy to take what you have for granted. And sometimes you need to leave to appreciate what you have. I don’t think I will be doing anymore yoga retreats for my birthday. I used to love doing them. They have always been a healing and spiritual experience for me. This trip did not feel that way for me (for additional reasons I didn’t mention here). But maybe I don’t need them anymore. Maybe I’ve outgrown them. Who knows. But there will definitely be more travel in my future.

November Birthday in Oaxaca!

Each year, I try to plan a new adventure for my birthday. Usually international with the exception of last year, pre-vaccine. It softens the blow of getting older and helps me reframe the occasion to be a more joyous one. Once September hits, I get that back-to-school fall feeling even though I have not been in school in years. That nervousness of starting a new chapter, not knowing what to expect. That anticipation of the cold and dark winter coming. And that looming birthday, which marks the end of my personal year and forces me reaccess my life. Travel (and vacation) gives me something to look forward to and helps me get my mind off the stresses of adulthood. After such an amazing road trip to Valle de Guadalupe this past June, I decided to return to Mexico and explore Oaxaca. Many Californians like to visit Cabo, Playa del Carmen, and Puerto Vallarta, but I’m not really a beach resort type girl and I’m not a fan of the super touristy spots. I love quaint little towns, countrysides, nature, small little beach destinations, and boutique or unique accommodations.

My friend in Missouri joined me on my annual birthday adventure and we met up in Mexico City. If you’re meeting your friend at the airport in Mexico City, make sure you know your arrival terminal. We arrived at different terminals and it took us awhile to find each other. She had to take the tram from Terminal 1 to meet me in Terminal 2 and it took an hour to wait in line for a taxi. Make sure you purchase a taxi ticket and wait in line first thing. Traffic in Mexico City is pretty bad. Also, another tip. If you travel to Mexico in November, it’s super cold at night! Pack warm clothes. Except for a couple hours in the afternoon, most of the time, we were freezing! I packed mostly dresses! It felt colder than what the temperatures showed.

We only had a couple days in the city so I can’t say we had that much time to really explore the city other than visit some delicious restaurants—Cha Cha Terraza, Contramar, Quintonil, and Gin Gin—and take a boat ride at the Xochimilco canals. Cha Cha Terraza had a fun lively vibe for dinner and drinks on their upstairs terrace. Contramar had great seafood. Gin Gin is a great bar/lounge down the street from Contramar and has really good cocktails and music. Quintonil is super upscale with an option for a tasting menu. Even though Quintonil is a special culinary experience, it was a little stuffy. Indoors. No vibe. No ambiance. It was also expensive for Mexico standards. You could get an amazing meal at a more fun restaurant for half the price or less. We also stopped at Cafe Toscana next door to Buna cafe in Roma North for a snack and glass of wine mid-afternoon one day and both places were really cute.

In Mexico City, we first stayed at the Sofitel in Cuauhtémoc, which felt like downtown. Even though the area is close to Condesa and Roma North, it was very busy and not as nice. We also stayed at The Orchid House Hotel in Polanco, which I loved because it’s small and boutique. Polanco is Mexico City’s upscale neighborhood. It’s quaint, charming, and walkable. I would definitely stay here again. I had previously wanted to stay at Brick Hotel in Roma North, which is also a cute area, but the rooms were all booked. If you prefer the big hotels, but want to stay in Polanco, you could do The W or The Intercontinenal.

From Mexico City, we flew to Oaxaca. It is a short 1 hour flight. And just as I imagined, Oaxaca was amazing! So quaint and charming! Arts and crafts sold by street vendors. Markets with an array of textile, leather handbags, hats, and jewelry. Cobblestone roads. Decorative flags lined the street. Colorful buildings with beautiful exterior artwork. Old churches. Boutique hotels, delicious food, and great cocktails. Every meal we had was better than the last. I was in heaven!

One thing to note is that I made the majority of the restaurant reservations about two months in advance. Thinking that it would be warmer in Oaxaca, I chose many outdoor rooftop venues for dinner. While Oaxaca was hot during the day, it was even colder than Mexico City at night. Some of the places had heat lamps but they weren’t always working. On two different nights, a couple restaurants mentioned that they ran out of gas for the lamps, which made eating very uncomfortable. I would recommend dressing very warm or doing the rooftop spots during the day for lunch to enjoy the view.

We dined at Los Danzantes, Tierra del Sol, Casa Oaxaca, Criollo, and The Terrace on top of Hotel Los Amantes. While the food was good at all the restaurants, my favorites were Casa Oaxaca and Criollo. Criollo was where I had my birthday dinner and it was super special! The chef from Mexico City’s world renowned Pujol is part of the Criollo team. The only option at this restaurant is to enjoy their 6 course surprise tasting menu, which included a variety of Oaxacan dishes. Each plate was artfully presented and delicious! Casa Oaxaca was a pleasant surprise for lunch. They have rooftop dining. I loved the fresh table-side salsa, the sweet potato wrapped squash blossoms, the agua chile, and their corn-flan dessert. I had never had a CORN flan dessert before and I loved it! Tierra del Sol has a nice rooftop terrace view. They had really good tacos de lechon with chicharron wrapped up in what looked like a banana leaf. It was so good that we came back the next day on my birthday for lunch! The other dishes weren’t as good but we could have ordered the wrong items since they didn’t have an English menu. One thing I learned on this trip is that I love chicharron on everything! I ordered soup several times while in Oaxaca and it often included chicharron in the soup with Oaxacan string cheese, which is also very delicious. Downstairs in the same building of Tierra del Sol, there’s a little cafe that sells Atole, which is a soothing hot corn and masa based beverage that Oaxacans often drink for breakfast or at night. It comes in different flavors. Try it! It’s interesting and different. I liked it. Los Danzantes also served really good food. That’s where we dined on our first night in Oaxaca. But that Sunday night, it was really quiet. We had tortilla soup, mahi mahi and fresh garden tomato ceviche, and fresh short rib pasta.

Upstairs from Los Danzantes is their partner speakeasy bar called Selva. There’s no sign. The entrance is roped off with a man guarding the doorway. The bar is super charming with prohibition era vibes. Cocktails were pretty and carefully curated. Another bar we enjoyed was Sabina Sabe, which is a lot more casual but has great music and good cocktails. They serve food as well but we didn’t get a chance to try any. The rooftop at Hotel Los Amantes has great views for a sunset drink. They have a small bar downstairs that we liked as well. I think I ordered a mezcal cocktail with pineapple everyday in Oaxaca.

Aside from eating really well, I did a group tour to Hierve el Agua. Helpful tip: exchange your dollars for pesos. You will need it for the entrance fee, for the group buffet lunch, and also for mezcal purchases at the distillery (they have a high minimum for credit card purchases). The tour lasted all day because they include a few stops including a mezcal tasting, which I thoroughly enjoyed. Because of land disputes, we had to take the unpaved, bumpy road up the mountain to get to the pools. Once you get to the entrance/parking lot, you have the option of hiking 45 minutes down to see the petrified waterfalls or just going straight to the pools. Going down was not a huge problem but it was a little exhausting coming back up because of all the steps. It definitely gets you all heated up and ready to jump in the pools. But if you just want to take cute pictures and relax, skip the hike and just go straight to the pools and then you won’t have to worry about packing hiking clothes and sneakers along with your bathing suit and towel. The view was beautiful. Bonus: I made a few new friends on the tour because I went solo. My friend didn’t want to wake up at 7am to join the tour.

My friend and I stayed in 2 different hotels during our time in Oaxaca. The first few nights we stayed at Grana B&B, which is very quaint and quiet and the staff is so accommodating. We had a suite with 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, which was nice. Breakfast was included and is made to order and it was delicious. I don’t normally love yogurt but the yogurt was really good! Yogurt anywhere outside of the U.S. is really good, in my opinion. The location was central. We also stayed one night at Hotel Los Amantes, which has the most beautiful rooftop views. Great for sunset drinks and the food was pretty good as well. It’s made up of 2 buildings across from eachother in a central location not far from Grana B&B, with 2 rooftop restaurants, and a small bar downstairs. We stayed in the Cuishe room with 2 queen beds. While the room was nice, the hotel in general is a little loud because of the atrium and rooftop restaurants. But it was convenient to be able to just run upstairs for a cocktail or snack. Breakfast was included there as well and it was pretty good also.

The people of Oaxaca were so welcoming, nice, and helpful. The tourists we befriended were also so friendly. I loved Oaxaca and would definitely visit again! They have direct flights from Los Angeles to Oaxaca on Mexican airlines. I have to say that the best part for me was the food because as you know, I love food! They use grasshopper in a lot of dishes but it’s unrecognizeable. I’m not a huge fan of mole even though it’s a popular dish in this region. Though I did discover that I am a huge fan of chicharron, Oaxacan cheese, and mezcal cocktails. I love their fresh corn tortilla and chips and salsa. I regret that I didn’t get a chance to have churros or hot chocolate while I was in Oaxaca and Mexico City. Check out my Instagram to see all the yummy food I ate!

I can’t wait to see more of Mexico. I want to visit Guadalajara, the town of Tequila, San Miguel, Matzalan, and maybe Puerto Escondido next. This vacation was such a nice reset. I felt like I was fully able to unplug from work and the stresses of life. It has been such a long time since I’ve been on a week long trip that did not involve any sort of work. Weekend road trips don’t count because you get those days off anyways. I’m already looking forward to another vacay. It has been hard for me to focus on work after returning from such a good trip. Plus, we’re right smack in the middle of the holidays. All I want to do is curl up on the couch and watch Christmas movies. This year is flying by too fast. And my post-vacay blues are setting in. I need to plan my next adventure soon. What’s next on your travel list?